Sunday morning, end of October and we were both skinny dipping at dawn! (Too much detail? Tough!) The Indian Summer came late to this part of the world but was all the more welcome for that and we didn’t intend to waste a minute of it. We spent a luxurious and lazy day topping up our tans for one last time, lying on Zaffina’s bow cushions reading our books and then we zipped across to Beaulieu sur Mer in the dinghy for dinner on the quayside and a lovely trip back in the dark with the lights from the hillside reflected all around us in the water. All in all, it was a special day and one we’ll remember through the long cool winter months.
Yesterday started with another early swim before we popped back into Beaulieu to pick up some bread, still warm from the bakery, before we upped anchor and sadly said our goodbyes to the South of France. We passed below Eze and the lovely Chevre d’Or hotel, passed Monaco with its high rise madness, passed across the border and without ceremony found ourselves in Italian waters, the final country on this year’s itinerary.
It was an emotional trip; we spent a lot of time thinking about and talking about the last five months and the amazing experiences we have enjoyed on Zaffina, and then suddenly Varazze was in sight and we were fast approaching our winter port.
There should have been a guard of honour, a band or fireworks, but in fact it was all a bit of an anticlimax! We slipped into port, moored up effortlessly and then we weren’t quite sure what to do with ourselves, so we opened a bottle of champagne.
And here we are at the end of a journey which started in Chichester on a grey morning back in May. We’ve covered around 3,500 miles and we’ve loved every day of it. We’re agreed that this has been the adventure of a lifetime and we wouldn’t have missed it for the world, and while we’re sad that this part is over, at least we’ve got next year to look forward to….and the year after that…and the year after…just watch this space!
Thank you for sharing the adventure with us, we'll be back in Jersey within the next few days.
Tuesday, 27 October 2009
St Tropez - St Jean Cap Ferrat - 21-24 October
Ha ha, of course it’ll blow through…eventually. It lashed it down with rain, the wind came up to a 10, the roads flooded and we were stuck on Zaffina throughout the tempest. And then, miraculously, on Friday the sun rose into a blue sky and the temperature soared and St Tropez turned back into the chic resort we were familiar with. Better still, it was sale time – a special 3 day event when all the shops put their wares on stalls out in the streets at reduced prices and the entire population of the South of France crowds into the town! You could barely walk through the narrow lanes but the atmosphere was vibrant and exciting and we loved being a part of it. The strange thing was, with the weather the preceding few days, everyone was dressed for winter in thick jumpers, jeans and boots but now it was really hot and there were a lot of sweaty red faces around!
We stayed on our gorgeous berth until Saturday. Our superyacht neighbour had been replaced by an even larger craft and we were truly stuck in a bottleneck, unable to leave any earlier even if we’d wanted to. On our last night in port there was a magnificent firework display, which we watched from the bridge – no doubt they were celebrating our imminent departure! It was a fitting end to a fun few days.
Conditions were brilliant on Saturday and as we slipped out of port, we were buzzed by a helicopter with a cameraman sitting in the doorway taking photos (you can probably see them at flypictures.com, we haven’t checked yet – either that or they’ll appear in Hello! next month!!) The mountains in the distance had a new coating of snow on the peaks, something that hadn’t been there when we arrived in Provence, and they stood out brilliantly against the blue of the sky and provided a dramatic backdrop for Cannes as we passed.
We decided to stop for a spot of lunch between the islands of St Marguerite and St Honore, and after demolishing a chicken bought hot in the market that morning we fell asleep in the sunshine, lying on the bow cushions. Lovely! It was a bit cooler when we set off again in the afternoon, heading for a favourite spot – Villefranche, just to the east of Nice. There was a bit too much swell to anchor in the spot we had anticipated so instead we turned around the headland of St Jean Cap Ferrat into an utterly calm anchorage, which we shared for the night with just 2 other yachts. We ate dinner in the cockpit, gazing out over the calm sea at the luxurious villas of the rich and famous which dot the headland, and watching the lights appear on the nearby hillsides and the stars shining in a velvety night sky.
We stayed on our gorgeous berth until Saturday. Our superyacht neighbour had been replaced by an even larger craft and we were truly stuck in a bottleneck, unable to leave any earlier even if we’d wanted to. On our last night in port there was a magnificent firework display, which we watched from the bridge – no doubt they were celebrating our imminent departure! It was a fitting end to a fun few days.
Conditions were brilliant on Saturday and as we slipped out of port, we were buzzed by a helicopter with a cameraman sitting in the doorway taking photos (you can probably see them at flypictures.com, we haven’t checked yet – either that or they’ll appear in Hello! next month!!) The mountains in the distance had a new coating of snow on the peaks, something that hadn’t been there when we arrived in Provence, and they stood out brilliantly against the blue of the sky and provided a dramatic backdrop for Cannes as we passed.
We decided to stop for a spot of lunch between the islands of St Marguerite and St Honore, and after demolishing a chicken bought hot in the market that morning we fell asleep in the sunshine, lying on the bow cushions. Lovely! It was a bit cooler when we set off again in the afternoon, heading for a favourite spot – Villefranche, just to the east of Nice. There was a bit too much swell to anchor in the spot we had anticipated so instead we turned around the headland of St Jean Cap Ferrat into an utterly calm anchorage, which we shared for the night with just 2 other yachts. We ate dinner in the cockpit, gazing out over the calm sea at the luxurious villas of the rich and famous which dot the headland, and watching the lights appear on the nearby hillsides and the stars shining in a velvety night sky.
Port Camargue - Frontignan - St Trop - October 2009
We had a brilliant but exhausting time at the boat show and spent an extra day lazing in the sunshine at Eze to recover before heading back to Zaffina in Port Camargue where we ended up stuck for rather longer than expected. Every time it looked as though things were about to improve, up came the wind again and any hope of moving on was delayed. Fortunately, we had Mark and Terri Bond with us and not only had they had the foresight to stock up on Pineau on the way down, which made hours spent on board slip away gracefully, they also had a car with which to explore the surrounding countryside. The Camargue was lovely; everything we had heard about it was true, from the wild white horses and pink flamingos to the fresh produce and crisp wines. It wasn’t a bad place to be stuck!
We had a couple more days in port after Mark and Terri left and then decided to try to take advantage of a brief window in the weather. Sadly, it was all too brief as we discovered about an hour out of port. The seas came up suddenly and we were being pushed around to such an extent that we decided to turn around. Instead of going back to Port Camargue, we went instead to Frontignan, a tiny port where we were moored in the entrance canal, well out of the wind.
We checked the Relais et Chateaux guide to find somewhere suitable to celebrate Frank’s birthday, only to discover that the choice within taxi distance was somewhat limited. In fact, there was only one – Jardins des Sens in Montpellier – so that’s where we went. And what a great choice it was! The food was unbelievable, one of the best meals we’ve ever enjoyed with impeccable service and enough “between course” courses (you know those little amuses bouches that they tempt you with?) to fill us up without any real need for the meal itself! Still, it would have been rude to turn away such beautifully prepared food so we laboured through it all. I could feel the calories scrambling towards my waistline even before we’d paid the bill, but for once it was worth it.
Our second attempt to cross the Golfe de Lyons was more successful than the first, and although it started out as quite a bumpy ride, things improved about an hour into the trip and from then on it was plain-ish sailing. We managed to get a berth in Bandol, near to Toulon, which was a lovely port and so much warmer than the last stop. However, it was just a brief overnighter and the following morning we were back at sea before it was fully light, heading to one of our favourite towns, St Tropez.
When we arrived, we were told that the wind was due to rise quite considerably and so they would put us in the old port. Good news, this is prime position, although it does mean that you have an audience on the quayside as you moor up by dropping the anchor in the harbour and moving into place stern-to. Last time we were in St Trop, Roberto Cavalli’s rather gaudy crimson boat was moored along here, so we feel we’ve brought a little style to the port (if on a slightly smaller scale)!
The wind rose during the night as predicted and although we’re well sheltered, we’re still getting quite a bit of movement, despite the many ropes stretching from us to the wall and also onto the boat alongside, a Pershing 115. Still, if the forecast is to be believed, this should soon blow itself through and we may even see a little sunshine in the next day or two. And if not, St Tropez is shopping heaven, so I’m sure we’ll find some way to amuse ourselves!
We had a couple more days in port after Mark and Terri left and then decided to try to take advantage of a brief window in the weather. Sadly, it was all too brief as we discovered about an hour out of port. The seas came up suddenly and we were being pushed around to such an extent that we decided to turn around. Instead of going back to Port Camargue, we went instead to Frontignan, a tiny port where we were moored in the entrance canal, well out of the wind.
We checked the Relais et Chateaux guide to find somewhere suitable to celebrate Frank’s birthday, only to discover that the choice within taxi distance was somewhat limited. In fact, there was only one – Jardins des Sens in Montpellier – so that’s where we went. And what a great choice it was! The food was unbelievable, one of the best meals we’ve ever enjoyed with impeccable service and enough “between course” courses (you know those little amuses bouches that they tempt you with?) to fill us up without any real need for the meal itself! Still, it would have been rude to turn away such beautifully prepared food so we laboured through it all. I could feel the calories scrambling towards my waistline even before we’d paid the bill, but for once it was worth it.
Our second attempt to cross the Golfe de Lyons was more successful than the first, and although it started out as quite a bumpy ride, things improved about an hour into the trip and from then on it was plain-ish sailing. We managed to get a berth in Bandol, near to Toulon, which was a lovely port and so much warmer than the last stop. However, it was just a brief overnighter and the following morning we were back at sea before it was fully light, heading to one of our favourite towns, St Tropez.
When we arrived, we were told that the wind was due to rise quite considerably and so they would put us in the old port. Good news, this is prime position, although it does mean that you have an audience on the quayside as you moor up by dropping the anchor in the harbour and moving into place stern-to. Last time we were in St Trop, Roberto Cavalli’s rather gaudy crimson boat was moored along here, so we feel we’ve brought a little style to the port (if on a slightly smaller scale)!
The wind rose during the night as predicted and although we’re well sheltered, we’re still getting quite a bit of movement, despite the many ropes stretching from us to the wall and also onto the boat alongside, a Pershing 115. Still, if the forecast is to be believed, this should soon blow itself through and we may even see a little sunshine in the next day or two. And if not, St Tropez is shopping heaven, so I’m sure we’ll find some way to amuse ourselves!
Tuesday, 6 October 2009
Barcelona - France - 3rd, 4th & 5thOctober
We only stayed the two nights and one day in Barcelona after all but we really filled our time there and thoroughly enjoyed it. The following morning we needed to restock the fridge and managed to find a thriving indoor market - fish, meat, fruit and veg stalls all crowded with customers, it was a hive of activity and all the produce was beautifully fresh so we grabbed all the provisions we needed, headed back to Zaffina and headed out of port. We discovered on departure that we had taken the long route into the port on our arrival, and in actual fact there was a short cut behind the cruise ships, so we didn't get the chance to wave at all the passengers this time!
As we moved on up the coast we had overhead entertainment in the form of an ongoing air display. It meant there were a lot of other boats around but we soon left them far behind as we cruised along the Costa Brava - what a beautiful coast it is! There were dozens of small inlets and anchorages and it would have been lovely to have the opportunity to nose into a load of them but we needed to press on. We did drop the anchor at lunch time in a lovely bay and enjoyed a couple of hours sunbathing on the flybridge where it was pleasantly warm but not as hot as the last few days. We moved on to a tiny port called Palomas for the night, where we were moored on the fuelling pontoon and had the whole area to ourselves. We ate by candlelight on board and in the morning the place was still pretty much deserted when we glided out of port onto a lovely calm sea.
Again the scenery was glorious and this time, when we found an anchorage and laid out in the sun, it was positively hot again! Frank dived straight into the azure water to cool off but once he'd told me that it wasn't as warm as Mallorcan waters, I declined the opportunity to join him but gave him encouragement from on board! The anchorage was probably one of the loveliest we have been in on the entire trip and it made our last day in Spain utterly memorable for all the right reasons.
We pressed on in the late afternoon as we still had a fairly long trip to port, the next one being over the border in France.
Neither of us were keen on Canet-Roussillon; it was large and impersonal and we certainly weren't inspired to stay there more than the one night, so in the morning we refuelled and took ourselves back out to sea.
What a change! The forecast had told us the wind would be behind us when in fact it was directly in front and there was quite a swell. It was the strongest head sea we'd encountered for several months and although Zaffina took it brilliantly, it was quite hard going. In fact, I nearly got bounced off the seat when we took the largest couple of waves whilst I was sitting on the loo! It's not often you have to hold on when you're having a pee!!
The whole trip was messy, we hugged the coast but whichever way we were facing, the wind was straight on, dying down for a time and then rising again. It was one of those trips when we were glad to get into port, and although we expected Port Camargue to be equally soulless as our harbour the previous night, we were pleasantly surprised by it. It is the largest leisure port in Europe with 5,000 berths and although we're moored just a stone's throw from the Capitainerie, it's across the water and apparently it's a 6km walk to get there overland! It was lovely to be in still, calm water again and we sat in the cockpit after dinner, just watching the lights on the water and savouring the whole experience.
This morning (Tuesday I think) we locked Zaffina, hired a car and drove to Eze (just outside Nice) and now we're in one of our favourite hotels, the Chevre d'Or, for a couple of nights. And we're off to the Genova Boat Show tomorrow to meet those nice people from Azimut!
Mark and Terri, if you're reading this, don't panic! We'll be back in time for your arrival.
As we moved on up the coast we had overhead entertainment in the form of an ongoing air display. It meant there were a lot of other boats around but we soon left them far behind as we cruised along the Costa Brava - what a beautiful coast it is! There were dozens of small inlets and anchorages and it would have been lovely to have the opportunity to nose into a load of them but we needed to press on. We did drop the anchor at lunch time in a lovely bay and enjoyed a couple of hours sunbathing on the flybridge where it was pleasantly warm but not as hot as the last few days. We moved on to a tiny port called Palomas for the night, where we were moored on the fuelling pontoon and had the whole area to ourselves. We ate by candlelight on board and in the morning the place was still pretty much deserted when we glided out of port onto a lovely calm sea.
Again the scenery was glorious and this time, when we found an anchorage and laid out in the sun, it was positively hot again! Frank dived straight into the azure water to cool off but once he'd told me that it wasn't as warm as Mallorcan waters, I declined the opportunity to join him but gave him encouragement from on board! The anchorage was probably one of the loveliest we have been in on the entire trip and it made our last day in Spain utterly memorable for all the right reasons.
We pressed on in the late afternoon as we still had a fairly long trip to port, the next one being over the border in France.
Neither of us were keen on Canet-Roussillon; it was large and impersonal and we certainly weren't inspired to stay there more than the one night, so in the morning we refuelled and took ourselves back out to sea.
What a change! The forecast had told us the wind would be behind us when in fact it was directly in front and there was quite a swell. It was the strongest head sea we'd encountered for several months and although Zaffina took it brilliantly, it was quite hard going. In fact, I nearly got bounced off the seat when we took the largest couple of waves whilst I was sitting on the loo! It's not often you have to hold on when you're having a pee!!
The whole trip was messy, we hugged the coast but whichever way we were facing, the wind was straight on, dying down for a time and then rising again. It was one of those trips when we were glad to get into port, and although we expected Port Camargue to be equally soulless as our harbour the previous night, we were pleasantly surprised by it. It is the largest leisure port in Europe with 5,000 berths and although we're moored just a stone's throw from the Capitainerie, it's across the water and apparently it's a 6km walk to get there overland! It was lovely to be in still, calm water again and we sat in the cockpit after dinner, just watching the lights on the water and savouring the whole experience.
This morning (Tuesday I think) we locked Zaffina, hired a car and drove to Eze (just outside Nice) and now we're in one of our favourite hotels, the Chevre d'Or, for a couple of nights. And we're off to the Genova Boat Show tomorrow to meet those nice people from Azimut!
Mark and Terri, if you're reading this, don't panic! We'll be back in time for your arrival.
Saturday, 3 October 2009
Mallorca to Barcelona - 1st October 2009
Don't know what you were doing on the first day of October but I bet we were having more fun! We left Mallorca at 9am in sunshine and on a flat sea, but we weren't too sure what the trip would hold once we were out of the shelter of the island. The forecast was looking good, but as we left there was a gale warning for the following day, northeast of Menorca, which wasn't such good news. We then followed the coast up to Andratx, passed between Dragonera Island (yes, it does look like a dragon) and Mallorca and then branched out into open sea. The swell was non existent and waves were minimal as we set off into the great blue yonder. From there it was five hours until we reached the coast again but what a great five hours they were. The sea just got calmer and calmer and by the time we were approaching the Spanish mainland, you could almost see your reflection in the surface. Whilst we were still an hour out we had the most amazing dolphin encounter - a small school of 7 or 8 joined us and then held a competition to see who could jump the higest out of the water. The prize went to the one which kept doing backflips - not just once or twice which we would have found difficult to believe we'd seen, but eight or nine times...quite extraordinary!
Port Vells in Barcelona was rather nice, full of character and very welcoming. It was fun coming in as we passed several huge, towering cruise ships and amused ourselves by waving at the passengers and seeing how many waved back. Most of them did!
We spent a day in the city, almost walking our feet off but loving every minute of it. No, we didn't get our pockets picked in Las Ramblas,which we felt was quite an achievement in itself! Barcelona is lovely, beautiful long tree lined avenues, good shops (although sadly I only got to go in one) and spacious parks, and the Gaudi Church is something else. Last evening we dined at one of the many restaurants alongside the port, watching the street traders watching for the police and all packing up and disappearing within 30 seconds when they were given a tip off! We were sad to leave the city, but we're heading north again and with little wind forecast for the next few days, conditions are too good to stay still for long.
Port Vells in Barcelona was rather nice, full of character and very welcoming. It was fun coming in as we passed several huge, towering cruise ships and amused ourselves by waving at the passengers and seeing how many waved back. Most of them did!
We spent a day in the city, almost walking our feet off but loving every minute of it. No, we didn't get our pockets picked in Las Ramblas,which we felt was quite an achievement in itself! Barcelona is lovely, beautiful long tree lined avenues, good shops (although sadly I only got to go in one) and spacious parks, and the Gaudi Church is something else. Last evening we dined at one of the many restaurants alongside the port, watching the street traders watching for the police and all packing up and disappearing within 30 seconds when they were given a tip off! We were sad to leave the city, but we're heading north again and with little wind forecast for the next few days, conditions are too good to stay still for long.
Monday, 28 September 2009
Around Mallorca - to 28th September
I can put my hand on my heart and report that there was a thunderstorm every single night of Tim and Annabelle’s stay with us! Fortunately the weather during the day wasn’t too bad, although it was a week of extremes; when it was sunny it was gorgeous but when it rained, it was monsoon season! We managed to make the best of the good days, and whilst they were with us, we almost circumnavigated Mallorca, starting from Andratx and heading east, finishing in Soller, which is an hour or so north of our starting point.
The trip from Andratx to Cala d’Or was not bad, we nosed into Portals Vells on the way and also into Mondrago, but by the time we got that far it was drizzling so we weren’t inclined to stop. Things were improving as we arrived in Cala d’Or, where we were given the best spot, right in front of the restaurants on the quay. By the time we were tied up, it was sunbathing weather again, and we made the most of it. With good weather the following morning, we put out to sea again, still heading north. This time conditions were brilliant, it just got calmer and calmer as we approached our destination, Formentor (not to be confused with Formentera), a beautiful, unspoilt bay where we dropped the anchor. It was such a delightful spot that we didn’t want to move, so we fired up the barbeque and had the night on the hook. Of course, we had our usual thunder and lightning through the evening and in the night the wind came up, slapping against the hull and making it a noisy night for all on board. Just before morning, the wind dropped off again and by the time we emerged, it was flat calm and bright sunshine. Tim dived straight off the back, frightening the fishes, which had gathered to enjoy the bread I had been throwing in for them. We took the dinghy over to the beach and went up to the Formentor Hotel for a full English. So engrossed were we with our food that we didn’t notice the wind rising again and our return journey to Zaffina resulted in a good soaking for all on board!
It stayed windy and choppy for most of the day and eventually we decided to head for port; Pollensa was just a short distance away and although there was some confusion about whether or not they had space for us, we ended up moored on an outside muelle, which turned out to be more sheltered than a position inside the marina. Once out of the wind, it was a sunbathing afternoon but I was feeling rough and cried off as the others went out for dinner at a quayside restaurant.
We decided to press on with our journey the next morning and slid off our mooring into a beautifully calm bay, ready to soak up the sun’s rays en route. Once we were round the northern tip of Mallorca, things changed! Clouds gathered, the wind rose and the swell was against us. Somehow the conditions matched the dramatic backdrop of the rugged cliffs of the north, towering majestically above us and making us feel very insignificant as we ploughed through the rough seas towards Soller. Frank pulled back the throttle as we approached a larger than average wave and a shriek came from Annabelle, who had been sitting reading in the cockpit. Apparently she cartwheeled overbackwards, landing on her butt in the shoebasket. Thereafter she was known as “Shoebox Annie”.
We were glad to get into port, all the more so when the sun popped out again, casting Soller in bright sunlight and raising our spirits accordingly. However, the forecast warned us that it wasn’t too last, and we knew we would be stuck in port for a few days. It wasn’t a bad place to be, the town was pretty with a selection of good restaurants nearby and a regular tram service to Soller town (Soller Town and Soller Port are a few miles apart but both are towns in their own right).
We were moored between several small ferries and the refuelling pontoon and were warned that one of the ferries needed to come alongside to refuel. They would warn us, they said, before they came into position the following morning. In the event, they didn’t bother, and before we could drop the bowline or get extra fenders ready, the ferry was up against us and trying to force itself into part of the space we already occupied. The result was a damaged bow rail on Zaffina and raised blood pressure for Frank! To cut a long story short, we’re making a claim on their insurance for the damage and Frank’s blood pressure eventually came down with a large glass of red wine.
Whilst in Soller, we popped up to La Residencia one evening and had a fabulous dinner there, and on the day of Tim and Annabelle’s departure, we opted for lunch at El Faro, a restaurant perched high on the cliffs above the entrance to the port. The rain was torrential and in the five yard run from the taxi to the door, all four of us got utterly soaked! A warm welcome and a great lunch made up for the weather – we couldn’t even see the view for the first half hour but when the rainclouds drew back, it took our breath away. As we watched, one of the day trip ferries wallowed from the port to the open sea, the waves buffeting and rocking the boat, giving its poor passengers a horrible ride; in the end, it gave up and returned to the harbour. For once we were glad to be on Terra Firma!
Tim and Annabelle left but forgot to take the rain with them! Frank whisked me back to La Residencia for our wedding anniversary, where we had lunch at the pool bar with thunder and lightning playing all around, then a lazy massage to the sound of rain cascading from the heavens! We stayed there for the night and awoke to the view of thunderclouds over the mountains but by the time we checked out and returned to Zaffina things were improving and with little wind around, we decided to make the run down to Palma. Coming out of Soller was quite hairy; at slow speed we were rolling around and wondering whether we had made the right decision to move at all, but as soon as we turned south and gave Zaffina her head she flew through the water effortlessly. Things got better and better and in addition to the seas improving, we also left the cloud behind, arriving in Palma under blue skies.
We then had two and a half glorious days of almost unbroken sunshine, and made a return visit to El Trenc, one of our favourite beaches (that’s the one with the naked sunbathers.) It was lovely to just chill out on the beach again (wearing our bathers by the way) and swim in the water which was slightly cooler than last time we were here but still very pleasant.
Last night we had another exceptional dinner on the terrace at Hotel Son Vida, overlooking the city of Palma and today we’re back on board and guess what? It’s raining and there’s thunder and lightning raging all around us…just for a change! As soon as things improve we’re hoping to head back to mainland Spain so, fingers crossed, Barcelona here we come!
The trip from Andratx to Cala d’Or was not bad, we nosed into Portals Vells on the way and also into Mondrago, but by the time we got that far it was drizzling so we weren’t inclined to stop. Things were improving as we arrived in Cala d’Or, where we were given the best spot, right in front of the restaurants on the quay. By the time we were tied up, it was sunbathing weather again, and we made the most of it. With good weather the following morning, we put out to sea again, still heading north. This time conditions were brilliant, it just got calmer and calmer as we approached our destination, Formentor (not to be confused with Formentera), a beautiful, unspoilt bay where we dropped the anchor. It was such a delightful spot that we didn’t want to move, so we fired up the barbeque and had the night on the hook. Of course, we had our usual thunder and lightning through the evening and in the night the wind came up, slapping against the hull and making it a noisy night for all on board. Just before morning, the wind dropped off again and by the time we emerged, it was flat calm and bright sunshine. Tim dived straight off the back, frightening the fishes, which had gathered to enjoy the bread I had been throwing in for them. We took the dinghy over to the beach and went up to the Formentor Hotel for a full English. So engrossed were we with our food that we didn’t notice the wind rising again and our return journey to Zaffina resulted in a good soaking for all on board!
It stayed windy and choppy for most of the day and eventually we decided to head for port; Pollensa was just a short distance away and although there was some confusion about whether or not they had space for us, we ended up moored on an outside muelle, which turned out to be more sheltered than a position inside the marina. Once out of the wind, it was a sunbathing afternoon but I was feeling rough and cried off as the others went out for dinner at a quayside restaurant.
We decided to press on with our journey the next morning and slid off our mooring into a beautifully calm bay, ready to soak up the sun’s rays en route. Once we were round the northern tip of Mallorca, things changed! Clouds gathered, the wind rose and the swell was against us. Somehow the conditions matched the dramatic backdrop of the rugged cliffs of the north, towering majestically above us and making us feel very insignificant as we ploughed through the rough seas towards Soller. Frank pulled back the throttle as we approached a larger than average wave and a shriek came from Annabelle, who had been sitting reading in the cockpit. Apparently she cartwheeled overbackwards, landing on her butt in the shoebasket. Thereafter she was known as “Shoebox Annie”.
We were glad to get into port, all the more so when the sun popped out again, casting Soller in bright sunlight and raising our spirits accordingly. However, the forecast warned us that it wasn’t too last, and we knew we would be stuck in port for a few days. It wasn’t a bad place to be, the town was pretty with a selection of good restaurants nearby and a regular tram service to Soller town (Soller Town and Soller Port are a few miles apart but both are towns in their own right).
We were moored between several small ferries and the refuelling pontoon and were warned that one of the ferries needed to come alongside to refuel. They would warn us, they said, before they came into position the following morning. In the event, they didn’t bother, and before we could drop the bowline or get extra fenders ready, the ferry was up against us and trying to force itself into part of the space we already occupied. The result was a damaged bow rail on Zaffina and raised blood pressure for Frank! To cut a long story short, we’re making a claim on their insurance for the damage and Frank’s blood pressure eventually came down with a large glass of red wine.
Whilst in Soller, we popped up to La Residencia one evening and had a fabulous dinner there, and on the day of Tim and Annabelle’s departure, we opted for lunch at El Faro, a restaurant perched high on the cliffs above the entrance to the port. The rain was torrential and in the five yard run from the taxi to the door, all four of us got utterly soaked! A warm welcome and a great lunch made up for the weather – we couldn’t even see the view for the first half hour but when the rainclouds drew back, it took our breath away. As we watched, one of the day trip ferries wallowed from the port to the open sea, the waves buffeting and rocking the boat, giving its poor passengers a horrible ride; in the end, it gave up and returned to the harbour. For once we were glad to be on Terra Firma!
Tim and Annabelle left but forgot to take the rain with them! Frank whisked me back to La Residencia for our wedding anniversary, where we had lunch at the pool bar with thunder and lightning playing all around, then a lazy massage to the sound of rain cascading from the heavens! We stayed there for the night and awoke to the view of thunderclouds over the mountains but by the time we checked out and returned to Zaffina things were improving and with little wind around, we decided to make the run down to Palma. Coming out of Soller was quite hairy; at slow speed we were rolling around and wondering whether we had made the right decision to move at all, but as soon as we turned south and gave Zaffina her head she flew through the water effortlessly. Things got better and better and in addition to the seas improving, we also left the cloud behind, arriving in Palma under blue skies.
We then had two and a half glorious days of almost unbroken sunshine, and made a return visit to El Trenc, one of our favourite beaches (that’s the one with the naked sunbathers.) It was lovely to just chill out on the beach again (wearing our bathers by the way) and swim in the water which was slightly cooler than last time we were here but still very pleasant.
Last night we had another exceptional dinner on the terrace at Hotel Son Vida, overlooking the city of Palma and today we’re back on board and guess what? It’s raining and there’s thunder and lightning raging all around us…just for a change! As soon as things improve we’re hoping to head back to mainland Spain so, fingers crossed, Barcelona here we come!
Wednesday, 16 September 2009
Still in Andratx - Wednesday 16th September
On Sunday evening the storm started. The skies over Mallorca were lit by flash after flash of lightning and the thunder rolled and roared. Good, we thought to ourselves, it should have blown through by the time Tim and Annabelle arrive, but no. This wasn't just any storm, this was a T&A storm and it went on and on and on. Thirty six hours later the thunder and lightning were still in full throttle and then the rain came down. To give you an idea of what it was like, we drove into Palma yesterday and the cars were FLOATING along the road. We had a bow wave, something we only usually experience at sea, and most delightful of all, the sewers couldn't cope with the sudden influx and were overflowing into the streets. You didn't want to be wearing flip flops.
It's still overcast this morning and there was a rumble of thunder a while ago, but the wind has dropped and the sea is calm so we're going to set off back to Cala d'Or. We had hoped to turn northwards from here, but the wind has moved around and we saw the seas off the northwest coast on our drive yesterday and immediately decided to head in the opposite direction.
Wish us a bon voyage...
It's still overcast this morning and there was a rumble of thunder a while ago, but the wind has dropped and the sea is calm so we're going to set off back to Cala d'Or. We had hoped to turn northwards from here, but the wind has moved around and we saw the seas off the northwest coast on our drive yesterday and immediately decided to head in the opposite direction.
Wish us a bon voyage...
Sunday, 13 September 2009
Balearics 2 - 13 September 2009
The wind rose on a bit last weekend, so we ended up spending several days in port at Cala d'Or. As places to be stuck go, it was pretty good with plenty of restaurants, friendly marina staff and good facilities. We took ourselves off to the nearby beach one afternoon but to be honest it was overcrowded with mainly German tourists and wasn't any great shakes. Em and Rory joined us on Sunday evening after I'd managed to get 19 towels and assorted bedding washed, dried and sorted from our previous guests. Talk about a Chinese laundry!
We spent the next few days retracing our path along the south coast of Majorca - the wind had turned, making a trip to the north coast impossible. Still, the beach as Es Trenc was as gorgeous as on our previous visit, and we found a fabulous restaurant just set back from the shoreline and worth a return trip. From there it was back to Portals which was much quieter than last time - we've obviously passed peak holiday season, but it didn't seem to have occurred to the shop staff that, with so little trade around, they ought to be pleasant to potential customers! Unless you're a Russian, a hooker or a pimp, you don't get much attention from them (no comments, thank you.)
We returned to Andratx after an afternoon at anchor in Portals Vells, a very pretty inlet with 4 small beaches separated by rocky outcrops. With loads of fish in the very clear, warm water, it was a lovely place for snorkelling. When we were about to leave, the yacht in front of us was performing all sorts of strange manoevres, threatening to reverse into us on several occasions. Eventually we realised that their anchor chain had twisted around ours, and it took some time to extricate ourselves - in fact, Rory dived down and untwisted it, no mean feat.
The sea conditions were some of the best we've experienced during our entire trip, flat calm water, absolutely idyllic. The following day we returned to Portals Vells and dropped anchor again. This time, we were a bit far out and getting moved around by the wake, so we decided to shift position. As the anchor came up, it rammed into its cradle, snapping the metal bridge which holds it in place and then it swung over the side of the bow. We were unable to get it back into place, so with the anchor hanging loose, we tiptoed back to Portals to get it fixed. It wasn't our best day - when we got into port and moored up, the Marineros came and told us they'd put us on the wrong mooring, so we immediately had to move.
With the anchor repaired (we had discovered that it had been wrongly put in place when the cradle was originally assembled) we spent the following afternoon at anchor in Santa Posa before returning to Andraxt. Em and Rory departed on Friday, and once they'd gone, Frank decided to launch himself off the steps to the bridge resulting in a bad bruising to both his back and his pride.
We now have a brief 3 days alone before Tim and Annabelle join us once again. And after 3 months of unbroken sunshine, guess what the meteo is forecasting for their arrival? Batten down the hatches folks, there could be a storm brewing!
We spent the next few days retracing our path along the south coast of Majorca - the wind had turned, making a trip to the north coast impossible. Still, the beach as Es Trenc was as gorgeous as on our previous visit, and we found a fabulous restaurant just set back from the shoreline and worth a return trip. From there it was back to Portals which was much quieter than last time - we've obviously passed peak holiday season, but it didn't seem to have occurred to the shop staff that, with so little trade around, they ought to be pleasant to potential customers! Unless you're a Russian, a hooker or a pimp, you don't get much attention from them (no comments, thank you.)
We returned to Andratx after an afternoon at anchor in Portals Vells, a very pretty inlet with 4 small beaches separated by rocky outcrops. With loads of fish in the very clear, warm water, it was a lovely place for snorkelling. When we were about to leave, the yacht in front of us was performing all sorts of strange manoevres, threatening to reverse into us on several occasions. Eventually we realised that their anchor chain had twisted around ours, and it took some time to extricate ourselves - in fact, Rory dived down and untwisted it, no mean feat.
The sea conditions were some of the best we've experienced during our entire trip, flat calm water, absolutely idyllic. The following day we returned to Portals Vells and dropped anchor again. This time, we were a bit far out and getting moved around by the wake, so we decided to shift position. As the anchor came up, it rammed into its cradle, snapping the metal bridge which holds it in place and then it swung over the side of the bow. We were unable to get it back into place, so with the anchor hanging loose, we tiptoed back to Portals to get it fixed. It wasn't our best day - when we got into port and moored up, the Marineros came and told us they'd put us on the wrong mooring, so we immediately had to move.
With the anchor repaired (we had discovered that it had been wrongly put in place when the cradle was originally assembled) we spent the following afternoon at anchor in Santa Posa before returning to Andraxt. Em and Rory departed on Friday, and once they'd gone, Frank decided to launch himself off the steps to the bridge resulting in a bad bruising to both his back and his pride.
We now have a brief 3 days alone before Tim and Annabelle join us once again. And after 3 months of unbroken sunshine, guess what the meteo is forecasting for their arrival? Batten down the hatches folks, there could be a storm brewing!
Sunday, 6 September 2009
In and around the Balearics - end Aug - Sep 2009
Balearics
It seems strange being almost settled in one place after so long on the move,so I'm not charting each trip any more. Now we’re in the Balearics we’ve turned into a floating hotel with guests arriving or leaving every few days.
The first few nights in Majorca were spent in Andraxt which is gorgeous, everything a Spanish port should be – good facilities, a pretty town, a supermarket nearby, a few interesting looking shops (by that I don’t mean chandleries…) and a swimming pool! Greg joined us there before we moved onto Santa Ponsa for one night, where his friend Vish came on board and the two of them enjoyed the delights – or otherwise – of Magaluf. On Friday, Christian, Adam and Leonie arrived, by which time we were in Puerto Portals, an upmarket marina where the small shops of Andraxt were replaced by designer boutiques and matching price tags. I did a quick restock at the local supermarket and almost keeled over when the tab came to 135e (I was expecting it to be about 50e, but I should have realised how ridiculous the prices were when I saw “fish bread” for sale – it was actually yesterday’s stale bread which you could buy to feed the fishes!)
With the kids keen to sample the nightlife, we took them over to Ibiza and spent the day at anchor in a delightful, unspoilt bay where we jumped off the back of the boat into the clear water and the boys took the dinghy and headed off to the nearest beach shack. In the evening we went into San Antonio. The place gives a dump a bad name! English tourists of the worst variety were drunk on the streets by 8pm, some of them dressed in nothing more than their underwear – when a bunch of 20 somethings tell you that the place is vile, you know it’s bad! However, they all went out clubbing at one of the clubs they’d heard about and returned to the boat a couple of hours before us oldies were getting up the following morning.
As a complete contrast, we then went back to Formentera, where the beach is so perfect it’s hard to believe you’re in Europe. Lunch was at one of those beach cafes where your feet are buried in the sand and the fish is so fresh it has barely stopped swimming. Frank kindly took us for a stroll in the afternoon, ostensibly to see the view but strangely enough, he led us straight to the gay/nudist beach! We spent the night at anchor in the bay, sharing a glorious sunset and apparently there was a glorious sunrise to match the following morning but Frank was the only one up and about to see it. Later in the day we had a reasonable crossing back to Majorca and returned to Portals, and the following day Greg and Vish left.
We headed next for Cala d’Or, stopping en route for an afternoon on the beach at Es Trenc – what a gorgeous place. The water was crystal clear and the beach lovely, although again quite a few people strolling round wearing nothing more than a smile on their faces. Christian was positively traumatised by an overweight woman of an age when she shouldn’t even be topless rising from the water alongside him completely naked!
Cala d’Or is lovely, a small port tucked up a meandering inlet with the town perched on the hill above. From here we went out to spend time at anchor at Mondrago, just 3 miles away and the last afternoon with Christian, Leonie and Adam ended with all of us diving from Zaffina into the deliciously warm water of the bay. They left us on Saturday and Frank and I are still here, waiting now for our next guests to arrive in a couple of hours.
It seems strange being almost settled in one place after so long on the move,so I'm not charting each trip any more. Now we’re in the Balearics we’ve turned into a floating hotel with guests arriving or leaving every few days.
The first few nights in Majorca were spent in Andraxt which is gorgeous, everything a Spanish port should be – good facilities, a pretty town, a supermarket nearby, a few interesting looking shops (by that I don’t mean chandleries…) and a swimming pool! Greg joined us there before we moved onto Santa Ponsa for one night, where his friend Vish came on board and the two of them enjoyed the delights – or otherwise – of Magaluf. On Friday, Christian, Adam and Leonie arrived, by which time we were in Puerto Portals, an upmarket marina where the small shops of Andraxt were replaced by designer boutiques and matching price tags. I did a quick restock at the local supermarket and almost keeled over when the tab came to 135e (I was expecting it to be about 50e, but I should have realised how ridiculous the prices were when I saw “fish bread” for sale – it was actually yesterday’s stale bread which you could buy to feed the fishes!)
With the kids keen to sample the nightlife, we took them over to Ibiza and spent the day at anchor in a delightful, unspoilt bay where we jumped off the back of the boat into the clear water and the boys took the dinghy and headed off to the nearest beach shack. In the evening we went into San Antonio. The place gives a dump a bad name! English tourists of the worst variety were drunk on the streets by 8pm, some of them dressed in nothing more than their underwear – when a bunch of 20 somethings tell you that the place is vile, you know it’s bad! However, they all went out clubbing at one of the clubs they’d heard about and returned to the boat a couple of hours before us oldies were getting up the following morning.
As a complete contrast, we then went back to Formentera, where the beach is so perfect it’s hard to believe you’re in Europe. Lunch was at one of those beach cafes where your feet are buried in the sand and the fish is so fresh it has barely stopped swimming. Frank kindly took us for a stroll in the afternoon, ostensibly to see the view but strangely enough, he led us straight to the gay/nudist beach! We spent the night at anchor in the bay, sharing a glorious sunset and apparently there was a glorious sunrise to match the following morning but Frank was the only one up and about to see it. Later in the day we had a reasonable crossing back to Majorca and returned to Portals, and the following day Greg and Vish left.
We headed next for Cala d’Or, stopping en route for an afternoon on the beach at Es Trenc – what a gorgeous place. The water was crystal clear and the beach lovely, although again quite a few people strolling round wearing nothing more than a smile on their faces. Christian was positively traumatised by an overweight woman of an age when she shouldn’t even be topless rising from the water alongside him completely naked!
Cala d’Or is lovely, a small port tucked up a meandering inlet with the town perched on the hill above. From here we went out to spend time at anchor at Mondrago, just 3 miles away and the last afternoon with Christian, Leonie and Adam ended with all of us diving from Zaffina into the deliciously warm water of the bay. They left us on Saturday and Frank and I are still here, waiting now for our next guests to arrive in a couple of hours.
Saturday, 29 August 2009
Santa Ponsa to Portals
Santa Ponsa to Portals - Friday 28th August 2009
We had intended to set off fairly early in the morning, but as so often happens, we got side tracked and it wasn't until nearly midday that we meandered over to the fuelling pontoon to fill up. It could have been an interesting refuel, as a sleepy Vish (he and Greg had got home after a night clubbing at 5am) wandered into the cockpit and immediately lit up a cigarette! A quiet word in his persuaded him that this wasn't the most sensible thing to do in our present position!! We managed to refuel without incident and eased out of Santa Ponsa and around the coast towards Palma. Our journey was only a little over half an hour, over a lovely sea and passing such enthralling resorts as Magaluf (we decided to give it a miss, having heard from Vish and Greg exactly how tacky it was).
Portals is another fab marina - large and chocabloc with megayachts, it is a very popular harbour with shops, bars and restaurants all around (no MacDonalds here). Christian, Adam and Leonie arrived about 15 minutes after we'd tied up, so Zaffina is full to the brim now with 7 of us on board. Adam has volunteered to be squashed into the crew cabin, no easy feat for someone with an ankle injury who is walking with a stick!
Dinner as under the stars at a restaurant a stone's throw from where we are moored and was followed by drinks on the terrace at Wellies, the most famous - or infamous - bar here.
We had intended to set off fairly early in the morning, but as so often happens, we got side tracked and it wasn't until nearly midday that we meandered over to the fuelling pontoon to fill up. It could have been an interesting refuel, as a sleepy Vish (he and Greg had got home after a night clubbing at 5am) wandered into the cockpit and immediately lit up a cigarette! A quiet word in his persuaded him that this wasn't the most sensible thing to do in our present position!! We managed to refuel without incident and eased out of Santa Ponsa and around the coast towards Palma. Our journey was only a little over half an hour, over a lovely sea and passing such enthralling resorts as Magaluf (we decided to give it a miss, having heard from Vish and Greg exactly how tacky it was).
Portals is another fab marina - large and chocabloc with megayachts, it is a very popular harbour with shops, bars and restaurants all around (no MacDonalds here). Christian, Adam and Leonie arrived about 15 minutes after we'd tied up, so Zaffina is full to the brim now with 7 of us on board. Adam has volunteered to be squashed into the crew cabin, no easy feat for someone with an ankle injury who is walking with a stick!
Dinner as under the stars at a restaurant a stone's throw from where we are moored and was followed by drinks on the terrace at Wellies, the most famous - or infamous - bar here.
Puerto Andraxt to Santa Ponsa
Puerto Andraxt to Santa Ponsa – 27th August 2009
When eventually we managed to tear ourselves away from Puerto Andraxt it was just to move a very short distance down the coast. Yesterday we hired a car to pick Greg up from the airport and on our way to return it this morning (Thursday), we popped down to the port at Santa Ponsa – what a pleasant surprise! Although the town itself is busy and very touristy, the port is tiny, a natural inlet about a mile away from the centre of the resort. We thought we would be too big to get in, but when we enquired at the Capitania, we were told that we could go on the waiting pontoon. We headed back to Andraxt, cast off and meandered along the coast before dropping anchor in the bay of Santa Ponsa. The water was deliciously warm and the afternoon was spent diving off the bathing platform and relaxing. Greg’s friend, Vish, who has flown out here, joined us on board via the dinghy before we headed into port and tied up in a space only a fraction longer than Zaffina on the pontoon!
When eventually we managed to tear ourselves away from Puerto Andraxt it was just to move a very short distance down the coast. Yesterday we hired a car to pick Greg up from the airport and on our way to return it this morning (Thursday), we popped down to the port at Santa Ponsa – what a pleasant surprise! Although the town itself is busy and very touristy, the port is tiny, a natural inlet about a mile away from the centre of the resort. We thought we would be too big to get in, but when we enquired at the Capitania, we were told that we could go on the waiting pontoon. We headed back to Andraxt, cast off and meandered along the coast before dropping anchor in the bay of Santa Ponsa. The water was deliciously warm and the afternoon was spent diving off the bathing platform and relaxing. Greg’s friend, Vish, who has flown out here, joined us on board via the dinghy before we headed into port and tied up in a space only a fraction longer than Zaffina on the pontoon!
Ibiza to Majorca
Ibiza to Majorca – Monday 24th August 2009
I lied about the minimal rations (see 23rd August). We went and had a fabulous meal on the quayside and drowned our sorrows and then in the morning we stayed on the berth until the last possible moment in order to get the best value out of it. Mind you, we made sure we left before they could even think about charging us for another night!
Out at sea the conditions were reasonable as we set off, hugging the coast of Ibiza before striking out towards the larger island of Majorca. As so often happens, things got better as we went along, and although we had intended going into port at Palma, where we thought we had a berth booked, we decided instead to drop anchor in a sheltered cove. Our search for a suitably sheltered spot eventually took us to Puerto Andraxt, and instead of dropping the anchor, we booked in and went alongside in the early afternoon. Just as well really, cause when we called Palma to cancel our place we discovered they had no record of it. Andraxt is simply gorgeous, one of those picturesque places that you hope to find and so often don’t! It has a natural harbour which is far up an inlet and well sheltered and the facilities were ideal for us, even including a swimming pool where we headed immediately we were tied up in order to have a refreshing swim. Our one night in Andraxt became two, then three, it was such a good place to unwind (which of course we still need to do!) with great restaurants and delicious bars along the quayside.
I lied about the minimal rations (see 23rd August). We went and had a fabulous meal on the quayside and drowned our sorrows and then in the morning we stayed on the berth until the last possible moment in order to get the best value out of it. Mind you, we made sure we left before they could even think about charging us for another night!
Out at sea the conditions were reasonable as we set off, hugging the coast of Ibiza before striking out towards the larger island of Majorca. As so often happens, things got better as we went along, and although we had intended going into port at Palma, where we thought we had a berth booked, we decided instead to drop anchor in a sheltered cove. Our search for a suitably sheltered spot eventually took us to Puerto Andraxt, and instead of dropping the anchor, we booked in and went alongside in the early afternoon. Just as well really, cause when we called Palma to cancel our place we discovered they had no record of it. Andraxt is simply gorgeous, one of those picturesque places that you hope to find and so often don’t! It has a natural harbour which is far up an inlet and well sheltered and the facilities were ideal for us, even including a swimming pool where we headed immediately we were tied up in order to have a refreshing swim. Our one night in Andraxt became two, then three, it was such a good place to unwind (which of course we still need to do!) with great restaurants and delicious bars along the quayside.
Alicante to Ibiza
Alicante to Ibiza – Sunday 23rd August 2009
We are so glad to be back on board! Although it was fun to catch up with people back in Jersey, we missed our life on Zaffina and we had huge grins on our faces when we landed in Spain. We just spent one night in Alicante before heading out into a mixed sea early on Sunday morning. With the swell from the east and the wind from the west – or was it the other way around? – the surface was a bit bumpy but things evened out pretty quickly as we sped on our way, following the Spanish coast before branching out into open sea and towards the Balearics. A few flying fish accompanied us along the way and there were some ominous looking greeny-brown jellyfish in the water near Spain but fewer of them as we left the mainland behind.
The journey took around 5 hours but instead of going straight into port, we diverted to the beautiful beach at Espelmador, off Formentera where we anchored off then took the dinghy shore. It was just the most perfect beach: white, white soft sand, no litter, and clear, clean turquoise waters, gorgeous! It was with great reluctance that we dragged ourselves back to the boat and lifted the anchor in the late afternoon, before heading across the channel to Ibiza. We were booked into one of the town marinas but as we approached, we realised the space we had been allocated was horribly exposed and that we would have a bumpy and unpleasant night, so we turned tail and went instead into Botafoch Marina. Here everything went smoothly, until Frank got the bill for our stay. Suffice to say, we assumed that we had bought a timeshare not simply paid for one night. We’ll have to be on minimal rations for at least the next fortnight to recoup the charge!
We are so glad to be back on board! Although it was fun to catch up with people back in Jersey, we missed our life on Zaffina and we had huge grins on our faces when we landed in Spain. We just spent one night in Alicante before heading out into a mixed sea early on Sunday morning. With the swell from the east and the wind from the west – or was it the other way around? – the surface was a bit bumpy but things evened out pretty quickly as we sped on our way, following the Spanish coast before branching out into open sea and towards the Balearics. A few flying fish accompanied us along the way and there were some ominous looking greeny-brown jellyfish in the water near Spain but fewer of them as we left the mainland behind.
The journey took around 5 hours but instead of going straight into port, we diverted to the beautiful beach at Espelmador, off Formentera where we anchored off then took the dinghy shore. It was just the most perfect beach: white, white soft sand, no litter, and clear, clean turquoise waters, gorgeous! It was with great reluctance that we dragged ourselves back to the boat and lifted the anchor in the late afternoon, before heading across the channel to Ibiza. We were booked into one of the town marinas but as we approached, we realised the space we had been allocated was horribly exposed and that we would have a bumpy and unpleasant night, so we turned tail and went instead into Botafoch Marina. Here everything went smoothly, until Frank got the bill for our stay. Suffice to say, we assumed that we had bought a timeshare not simply paid for one night. We’ll have to be on minimal rations for at least the next fortnight to recoup the charge!
Sunday, 2 August 2009
Cartagena to Alicante - 1st August 2009
Got up this morning to discover that someone had vomited on the pontoon alongside Zaffina - delightful. What was worse was that some b******* had thrown a cigarette butt on board and burnt a hole in the seating. We were livid, especially as there was no security at the marina and they had put us on a totally exposed mooring, so we went up to the marina office to complain. Eventually they agreed to cover the cost of repairs although whether we ever see the money or not is another matter. So for those of you who may be considering going into Cartagena on your travels, don't bother is our advice. It's been our least favourite port so far. Annoyingly, we discovered there was another marina backing onto the one we were in, where we would have been much better protected.
We were glad to set off to sea again, although we weren't sure what sort of a crossing we were in for as the wind was up to a good 5 and the sea looked quite lumpy. However, with the wind behind us we sped down the coast and Zaffina took it all in her stride giving us a great trip.
An hour out of Cartagena we suddenly found ourselves alongside Miami Beach, which was a bit of a shock! Actually, it wasn't the real Miami Beach (honest) but it sure looked like it, a long strip of white sand with stacks of high rise buildings towering over it. This was the land dividing the Mar Menor (an inland sea) from the Med so we decided to have a nose in. The entrance was a long, narrow canal and scarily shallow in places so we had to feel our way through. At one point we slipped under a bridge which gave us only inches to spare overhead and then we came out into a large marina which led in turn into the Mar Menor itself. Had it been less windy we would probably have explored further, but we wanted to press on to Alicante whilst the conditions were still ok, so just had a brief gander before we turned round again and headed out.
The rest of the crossing was uneventful. Zaffina was her usual fantastic self and our only problem was a difficult mooring in Alicante with a strong wind trying to push her every which way. It was a relief to finally be tied up with a refreshing vodka and tonic in hand! We'll be here until Wednesday when we fly home for a couple of weeks before pushing on to the Balearics.
We were glad to set off to sea again, although we weren't sure what sort of a crossing we were in for as the wind was up to a good 5 and the sea looked quite lumpy. However, with the wind behind us we sped down the coast and Zaffina took it all in her stride giving us a great trip.
An hour out of Cartagena we suddenly found ourselves alongside Miami Beach, which was a bit of a shock! Actually, it wasn't the real Miami Beach (honest) but it sure looked like it, a long strip of white sand with stacks of high rise buildings towering over it. This was the land dividing the Mar Menor (an inland sea) from the Med so we decided to have a nose in. The entrance was a long, narrow canal and scarily shallow in places so we had to feel our way through. At one point we slipped under a bridge which gave us only inches to spare overhead and then we came out into a large marina which led in turn into the Mar Menor itself. Had it been less windy we would probably have explored further, but we wanted to press on to Alicante whilst the conditions were still ok, so just had a brief gander before we turned round again and headed out.
The rest of the crossing was uneventful. Zaffina was her usual fantastic self and our only problem was a difficult mooring in Alicante with a strong wind trying to push her every which way. It was a relief to finally be tied up with a refreshing vodka and tonic in hand! We'll be here until Wednesday when we fly home for a couple of weeks before pushing on to the Balearics.
Friday, 31 July 2009
Marina del Este to Cartagena - 31st July 2009
Had an early start today when the boat next to us decided to start the engines before we were even awake and then kept them running for a good 15 mins until they left port. We were less than amused as were the people on the boat the other side but if we run into them again, we'll get our revenge! We didn't leave port until several hours later, in fact we were delayed because the bread was still in the oven at the little supermarket and we had to wait for it to come out before we could have our breakfast! The sea was great once we got out, smooth as ice and silvery blue as we set off along the coast. We went to Granada yesterday, to visit the Alhambra Palace which was fantastic, so we'd already seen some of the coast we were passing today from a different perspective. A couple of hours out and the scenery changed, flat and pretty uninspiring after the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra Nevada.
Originally we were just going to do a short hop but the conditions were so good that we decided to move on to Cartagena which meant an 8 hour trip. The countryside went from flat to mountainous but very arid and unwelcoming and we were happy to be leaving it behind.
A couple of hours out from Cartagena, we came across what we thought at first were dolphins, but turned out to be whales. We had an awesome, memorable, fantastic half hour watching them play around the boat. They were clearly enjoying themselves as they dived beneath the bow, turned somersaults and generally entertained us, it was just amazing.
Now we're in Cartagena, it's 10.30 at night and still hot! We're moored alongside the quay and it's like being in a goldfish bowl because everyone who passes (and there's non stop ambulatory traffic) tries to poke their head in for a look. Don't think it's going to be a very quiet night somehow!
Originally we were just going to do a short hop but the conditions were so good that we decided to move on to Cartagena which meant an 8 hour trip. The countryside went from flat to mountainous but very arid and unwelcoming and we were happy to be leaving it behind.
A couple of hours out from Cartagena, we came across what we thought at first were dolphins, but turned out to be whales. We had an awesome, memorable, fantastic half hour watching them play around the boat. They were clearly enjoying themselves as they dived beneath the bow, turned somersaults and generally entertained us, it was just amazing.
Now we're in Cartagena, it's 10.30 at night and still hot! We're moored alongside the quay and it's like being in a goldfish bowl because everyone who passes (and there's non stop ambulatory traffic) tries to poke their head in for a look. Don't think it's going to be a very quiet night somehow!
Thursday, 30 July 2009
Benalmadena to Marina del Este - 29 July 2009
We had intended setting off earlyish in the morning for our next port of call but instead we had a lazy start to the day and by the time we'd had our breakfast and then a surprise visit from the Azimut agent for southern Spain, most of the morning was gone. So was the sunshine! It was hot but overcast as we set off but within a quarter or an hour or so, visibility suddenly decreased as we were enveloped in mist. We fired up the radar and kept a look out on it for other boats. At one point another Azimut loomed out of the mist just metres away to our port and travelling at full pelt - we had been expecting him but whether he was expecting to see us was another matter. The mist rose and fell and with it the visibility so we had to keep the speed down, making the short hop to Marine del Este rather longer than we'd anticipated. Not far from our destination, we dropped anchor in a bay beneath a beautiful village perched on the edge of a rocky hillside and enjoyed a late lunch and a laze through the afternoon.
When we got to the marina we had our first stern to berthing with just the two of us on board. It all went surprisingly well, although one of my arms is now six inches longer than the other. This boating lark is hard work you know!
When we got to the marina we had our first stern to berthing with just the two of us on board. It all went surprisingly well, although one of my arms is now six inches longer than the other. This boating lark is hard work you know!
Tuesday, 28 July 2009
Morocco-Gib-Benalmadena - 25th July 2009
We were ready to check out by the time the Smir marina office opened at 8 o clock, and glided out onto a still, calm sea to head back towards Gibraltar. This time, the Straits were calmer although there was still, inevitably, a bit of a swell. A little after half way across we suddenly sighted dolphins on the bow, and on the stern, and all around us. As the sea calmed, we watched with delight as they performed acrobatic displays through the water and dived up from the depths to twist in the air before disappearing back into the waves. It was a magical display and we all felt privileged to have seen it.
Once in Gib we refuelled at a wonderful 53p per litre - compared to almost 1 euro in Spain - then Frank and I rushed up to replenish the larder in Morrisons whilst Adrian, Dominic and Chantelle took the cable car up the Rock to see the apes, although Chantelle wasn't too happy when one jumped out at her! We had lunch whilst we were tied up (difficult...) and then headed back out to sea, a little worried because we knew the wind had risen whilst we were in port.
Things weren't too bad and in fact they just got better and better, so we dropped the anchor near Sotogrande and dived off the back of Zaffina and swam around the boat. Before we left, Adrian and I took the dinghy out whilst Frank took Zaffina up to 30 knots and almost mowed us down whilst I took photographs. It was a pretty scary experience, looking up at a massive motorboat bearing down on you at full speed, but the photos were worth it.
We tried to get into Marbella Marina but it was full so we had to head along the coast to Benalmadena. By now the sea was flat calm which was fortunate as it was dotted with pot markers and we had a slalom trip trying to avoid them all. The evening finished with a late barbeque on board as we reflected on visiting 3 countries and two continents all in one day! Not bad going!!
Once in Gib we refuelled at a wonderful 53p per litre - compared to almost 1 euro in Spain - then Frank and I rushed up to replenish the larder in Morrisons whilst Adrian, Dominic and Chantelle took the cable car up the Rock to see the apes, although Chantelle wasn't too happy when one jumped out at her! We had lunch whilst we were tied up (difficult...) and then headed back out to sea, a little worried because we knew the wind had risen whilst we were in port.
Things weren't too bad and in fact they just got better and better, so we dropped the anchor near Sotogrande and dived off the back of Zaffina and swam around the boat. Before we left, Adrian and I took the dinghy out whilst Frank took Zaffina up to 30 knots and almost mowed us down whilst I took photographs. It was a pretty scary experience, looking up at a massive motorboat bearing down on you at full speed, but the photos were worth it.
We tried to get into Marbella Marina but it was full so we had to head along the coast to Benalmadena. By now the sea was flat calm which was fortunate as it was dotted with pot markers and we had a slalom trip trying to avoid them all. The evening finished with a late barbeque on board as we reflected on visiting 3 countries and two continents all in one day! Not bad going!!
Sotogrande to Morocco - 24th July 2009
With a better weather forecast, we finally had the chance to make the trip across the Straits of Gibraltar to Morocco so we set off at around 9am. The sea was fine until we were out of the shelter of the coast and then it was hard going, as we were driving into the wind with the tide against us. That, coupled with the fact that three of us were suffering hangovers after a heavy night with very hospitable neighbours, meant that the trip was hard going and to add to our misery we were frequently showered with cold spray!
Once close to the African mainland and safely past the open sea, conditions changed dramatically and the sea was as smooth as the proverbial baby's backside. We glided across the glassy surface to Smir where the marina attendant was hugely welcoming. Check in formalities were very thorough with a doctor on hand in case any of us was suffering from swine flu (fortunately the symptoms are different to those of a hangover!)
We were moored alongside right opposite the stores and restaurants which line the quayside, and Zaffina immediately became the main focus of interest in the port. Dozens of people stopped to have their photographs taken alongside her - who can blame them, she's gorgeous! It was the oddest experience to see the Azimut moored up in port with a camel strolling past - not a sight we're likely to see again for a while!
We really enjoyed Smir, it had an exotic atmosphere with the scent of the Africa on the wind. We spent the afternoon on a hugely overcrowded beach where the most popular watersport was throwing small children into the sea! There were dozens and dozens of jetskis whizzing past at breakneck speed, narrowly avoiding bathers and powerful speed boats performing dramatic feats which threatened to throw their passengers off the back! Health and safety? You must be joking!
Sadly the weather forecast meant we could only stay one night and the following morning we were up and off before the town had come alive again.
Once close to the African mainland and safely past the open sea, conditions changed dramatically and the sea was as smooth as the proverbial baby's backside. We glided across the glassy surface to Smir where the marina attendant was hugely welcoming. Check in formalities were very thorough with a doctor on hand in case any of us was suffering from swine flu (fortunately the symptoms are different to those of a hangover!)
We were moored alongside right opposite the stores and restaurants which line the quayside, and Zaffina immediately became the main focus of interest in the port. Dozens of people stopped to have their photographs taken alongside her - who can blame them, she's gorgeous! It was the oddest experience to see the Azimut moored up in port with a camel strolling past - not a sight we're likely to see again for a while!
We really enjoyed Smir, it had an exotic atmosphere with the scent of the Africa on the wind. We spent the afternoon on a hugely overcrowded beach where the most popular watersport was throwing small children into the sea! There were dozens and dozens of jetskis whizzing past at breakneck speed, narrowly avoiding bathers and powerful speed boats performing dramatic feats which threatened to throw their passengers off the back! Health and safety? You must be joking!
Sadly the weather forecast meant we could only stay one night and the following morning we were up and off before the town had come alive again.
Thursday, 23 July 2009
Puerto Banus to Sotogrande - 20th July 2009
Although Puerto Banus was gorgeous it was hideously expensive and after 4 nights it was time for us to push on. We moved Zaffina over to the fuelling pontoon whilst Frank went up to the office to pay...and nearly passed out when they told him that the charge for 4 days electricity was 136 euros! When he queried it, the surly staff insisted that the figure was correct...when he refused to pay they went and checked the meter and still insisted that the figures were correct, until Frank pointed out that they were transposed. Without an apology they charged him the correct amount - 3 euros 60. I don't think we'll be welcome back in Puerto Banus!
The crossing to Sotogrande was one of the best we've had. The sea was lovely and I actually had a first opportunity to lie out on the sunbeds on the bridge as we went along. This marina is a complete contrast to the last one we were in, it is very modern, huge and very quiet. We spent a couple of afternoons on the nearby beach, had a barbeque on board one evening and sampled one of the local restaurants last night. Today (Thursday) we were intending to move on again but unless the wind drops it looks like we're here for another night. Never mind, the sun is shining and there are worse places to be marooned!
The crossing to Sotogrande was one of the best we've had. The sea was lovely and I actually had a first opportunity to lie out on the sunbeds on the bridge as we went along. This marina is a complete contrast to the last one we were in, it is very modern, huge and very quiet. We spent a couple of afternoons on the nearby beach, had a barbeque on board one evening and sampled one of the local restaurants last night. Today (Thursday) we were intending to move on again but unless the wind drops it looks like we're here for another night. Never mind, the sun is shining and there are worse places to be marooned!
Wednesday, 22 July 2009
Gibraltar to Puerto Banus - 11th July 2009
After 10 days at home, we flew back to Gib and the heat! Despite all the promises that the various maintenance and repair jobs would be completed before we were back on board, next to nothing had been done - hardly surprising when we checked with the marina office and discovered that the engineer had only come on board the day before our return, not worked throughout the 10 days as promised. Fortunately, none of the tasks were particularly urgent, but it was niggling to know they still needed fixing. What was more annoying was the fact that someone had allowed the electricity to run out and the contents of the freezer had all defrosted, leaving a smelly mess in the bottom which had then refrozen.
We spent another 3 nights in Gib before refuelling at a mere 56p per litre (compared to 90+ in Spain and Portugal and more than one euro in France)and then heading along the coast to Puerto Banus. What a gorgeous port! Typical white Spanish houses with their pinky-brown terracotta tiles surrounded the harbour, with designer stores and restaurants all along the front. There was a price to pay for all this luxury - of course - the marina fees were ten times those of Gib!
After a lovely meal on Saturday evening, we retired to Zaffina for a night of being bitten to bits by mosquitoes! Their irritating buzzing continually woke us and we spent an age searching the cabin for the little blighters. Eventually we fell back asleep but a short while later I was woken by an unwelcome noise - footsteps. I went up to the saloon and realised we had company on board, so woke Frank and we went to confront the intruders. A couple of strangers descended from the flybridge as I opened the saloon doors and when confronted claimed they thought it was "my dad's boat". I insisted they give us some ID before we let them leave; there was no damage and we'll never know whether their story was true or not.
Adrian joined us again on Sunday with Dominic and Chantal, and we spent another couple of nights in Puerto Banus counting the Ferraris and feeling very small among the mega-mega yachts which live there year round.
We spent another 3 nights in Gib before refuelling at a mere 56p per litre (compared to 90+ in Spain and Portugal and more than one euro in France)and then heading along the coast to Puerto Banus. What a gorgeous port! Typical white Spanish houses with their pinky-brown terracotta tiles surrounded the harbour, with designer stores and restaurants all along the front. There was a price to pay for all this luxury - of course - the marina fees were ten times those of Gib!
After a lovely meal on Saturday evening, we retired to Zaffina for a night of being bitten to bits by mosquitoes! Their irritating buzzing continually woke us and we spent an age searching the cabin for the little blighters. Eventually we fell back asleep but a short while later I was woken by an unwelcome noise - footsteps. I went up to the saloon and realised we had company on board, so woke Frank and we went to confront the intruders. A couple of strangers descended from the flybridge as I opened the saloon doors and when confronted claimed they thought it was "my dad's boat". I insisted they give us some ID before we let them leave; there was no damage and we'll never know whether their story was true or not.
Adrian joined us again on Sunday with Dominic and Chantal, and we spent another couple of nights in Puerto Banus counting the Ferraris and feeling very small among the mega-mega yachts which live there year round.
Monday, 6 July 2009
We're back in Jersey for a week now. Thank you for all the positive comments about the Blog, which will continue (the blog and possibly the comments) when we return to Zaffina on 14th July. If you want to read about the trip in more detail, I'm doing a series in Motor Boat & Yachting magazine, the first installment of which is in the August edition. Sadly, due to a mix up somewhere along the line, it is attributed to Angela Rice but no worries. As my charming brother says, just think how poor Angela feels!
Cadiz to Gibraltar – Wednesday 1st July 2009
It was hot and sunny – yet again – when we cast off the ropes at Puerto Sherry this morning and manoeuvred back out to sea, expecting a similar trip to the one we so enjoyed yesterday. No such luck. The swell was more pronounced today and much shorter and sharper, which meant we were in for a less comfortable ride. As ever, Zaffina took it all in her stride, but the sea was doing its best to push her around and keeping on track wasn’t easy.
Whenever Frank decides to take a break and go down to the cabin, the weather deteriorates and sure enough…he went down below and the sky turned grey. Very grey. Adrian and I were convinced it was going to pour down; not the conditions we’d expected at the southernmost tip of Spain by a long chalk! It was still warm though, with the desert wind blowing up from the African mainland, which suddenly we could see clearly on our starboard horizon.
Fortunately things improved, and by the time Frank rejoined us on the bridge, the sky had cleared and the sun reappeared overhead. Africa seemed just a stone’s throw away as we passed Tarifa – which is apparently the European headquarters for windsurfing (that should have struck a warning note) – and suddenly we could see the distinctive outline of Gibraltar in the distance. We upped the speed and raced across the bay at 34 knots, cheering and laughing as we approached our destination.
We’ve had some exciting moments on this trip, but passing through the Straits of Gibraltar was one of the best. We kept looking from Spain to Gibraltar to Africa - 3 countries, 2 continents - and hugging one another, amazed and elated that we have come so far so successfully. This is both an ending and a beginning for us.
Mooring up in the shadow of The Rock was an interesting procedure, our first experience of lazy lines and mooring stern-to, but it was all completed without any drama and once safely tied up, the champagne corks were soon popping and the bubbles flowing on board Zaffina as we celebrated our arrival!
It was hot and sunny – yet again – when we cast off the ropes at Puerto Sherry this morning and manoeuvred back out to sea, expecting a similar trip to the one we so enjoyed yesterday. No such luck. The swell was more pronounced today and much shorter and sharper, which meant we were in for a less comfortable ride. As ever, Zaffina took it all in her stride, but the sea was doing its best to push her around and keeping on track wasn’t easy.
Whenever Frank decides to take a break and go down to the cabin, the weather deteriorates and sure enough…he went down below and the sky turned grey. Very grey. Adrian and I were convinced it was going to pour down; not the conditions we’d expected at the southernmost tip of Spain by a long chalk! It was still warm though, with the desert wind blowing up from the African mainland, which suddenly we could see clearly on our starboard horizon.
Fortunately things improved, and by the time Frank rejoined us on the bridge, the sky had cleared and the sun reappeared overhead. Africa seemed just a stone’s throw away as we passed Tarifa – which is apparently the European headquarters for windsurfing (that should have struck a warning note) – and suddenly we could see the distinctive outline of Gibraltar in the distance. We upped the speed and raced across the bay at 34 knots, cheering and laughing as we approached our destination.
We’ve had some exciting moments on this trip, but passing through the Straits of Gibraltar was one of the best. We kept looking from Spain to Gibraltar to Africa - 3 countries, 2 continents - and hugging one another, amazed and elated that we have come so far so successfully. This is both an ending and a beginning for us.
Mooring up in the shadow of The Rock was an interesting procedure, our first experience of lazy lines and mooring stern-to, but it was all completed without any drama and once safely tied up, the champagne corks were soon popping and the bubbles flowing on board Zaffina as we celebrated our arrival!
Tuesday, 30 June 2009
Villa Real de Santo Antonio to Cadiz – Tuesday 30th June 2009
Our last day in Portugal was one of the most perfect so far. Instead of heading out to sea, we decided to meander up river, under the suspension bridge and onwards. The weather was utterly perfect, the water utterly still as we drifted along at about 5 knots. Portugal was to the left of us, Spain to the right – it was strange to think that we were in no man’s land (or water) somewhere in between and one side was an hour ahead of the other! The scenery was beautiful and totally unspoilt, and we eventually dropped anchor under a stand of poplar trees on a curve of the river where birdsong drifted on the warm air and the banks were lined with oleander bushes. The only thing we couldn’t do was to take a dip to cool off from the relentless heat. On the way up river, we had seen thousands of jellyfish – and mean looking ones at that - and although they were heading downstream, there was too much risk that one or two may have hung around looking for tender Jersey flesh to sting!
We had intended to spend the night in a marina on the Spanish side of the border, but when eventually we returned to the river mouth, the wind had risen and it was more prudent to head back into the same Portuguese marina we had left earlier in the day.
This morning dawned hot and bright and after a quick bread run into town, we slipped out of the marina and out to sea. The Portuguese and Spanish fishermen had obviously been competing with one another to see who could lay the most pots in our path…there was no clear winner; both sides had done a magnificent job!
Our journey took us across the bay of Cadiz and for most of the 5 hour trip, we were almost out of sight of land. The conditions were wonderful and we dropped the bimini cover so we could enjoy the sunshine whilst being cooled by the breeze created by our speed. As usual, the wind came up in the early afternoon, but by then we were almost at our destination and now here we are, back in Spain, but a very different part of the country from the rainy northern coast we left behind a couple of weeks ago!
Our last day in Portugal was one of the most perfect so far. Instead of heading out to sea, we decided to meander up river, under the suspension bridge and onwards. The weather was utterly perfect, the water utterly still as we drifted along at about 5 knots. Portugal was to the left of us, Spain to the right – it was strange to think that we were in no man’s land (or water) somewhere in between and one side was an hour ahead of the other! The scenery was beautiful and totally unspoilt, and we eventually dropped anchor under a stand of poplar trees on a curve of the river where birdsong drifted on the warm air and the banks were lined with oleander bushes. The only thing we couldn’t do was to take a dip to cool off from the relentless heat. On the way up river, we had seen thousands of jellyfish – and mean looking ones at that - and although they were heading downstream, there was too much risk that one or two may have hung around looking for tender Jersey flesh to sting!
We had intended to spend the night in a marina on the Spanish side of the border, but when eventually we returned to the river mouth, the wind had risen and it was more prudent to head back into the same Portuguese marina we had left earlier in the day.
This morning dawned hot and bright and after a quick bread run into town, we slipped out of the marina and out to sea. The Portuguese and Spanish fishermen had obviously been competing with one another to see who could lay the most pots in our path…there was no clear winner; both sides had done a magnificent job!
Our journey took us across the bay of Cadiz and for most of the 5 hour trip, we were almost out of sight of land. The conditions were wonderful and we dropped the bimini cover so we could enjoy the sunshine whilst being cooled by the breeze created by our speed. As usual, the wind came up in the early afternoon, but by then we were almost at our destination and now here we are, back in Spain, but a very different part of the country from the rainy northern coast we left behind a couple of weeks ago!
Sunday, 28 June 2009
Vilamoura to Vila Real de Santo Antonio - Sunday 28th June
We ended up spending five nights in Vilamoura and new crew arrived on board on Wednesday morning - Adrian flew into Faro which was a short drive away. We had a hire car, which was just as well because we weren't able to get hold of charts for the coast we had passed which meant we would be unable to get in too close if we returned on Zaffina. Instead we drove to Carvoeiro and spent an afternoon on a nearby beach.
We did manage to get a chart for the area to the east of Vilamoura and yesterday we went about an hour out and nosed into Ria Formosa where we anchored off Ilha de Barreta, a nature park surrounded by long golden beaches. We lazed on one of the beaches for the afternoon before returning to Vilamoura for a barbeque on board.
When we left harbour this morning, there was a surprisingly heavy swell and we anticipated a bumpy trip. We hadn't actually decided where to spend the day as we couldn't get to Santo Antonio until early evening due to the tides, but the conditions pretty much dictated that we head back to Ria Formosa which turned out to be an idyllic choice. By the time we got there, the wind had dropped and we had a delicious day in the sun, with a warm breeze rocking us gently at anchor.
We moved on in the late afternoon, avoiding the numerous pots on our way to Rio Guardiana, the border between Portugal and Spain. Getting into port was an interesting challenge, with both the wind and the tide pushing hard on the stern, but the negotiation of the entrance was immaculate (I would praise the Skipper, but he'd only get big headed...) and now here we are, tied up in Portugal and looking across the river to Spain!
We ended up spending five nights in Vilamoura and new crew arrived on board on Wednesday morning - Adrian flew into Faro which was a short drive away. We had a hire car, which was just as well because we weren't able to get hold of charts for the coast we had passed which meant we would be unable to get in too close if we returned on Zaffina. Instead we drove to Carvoeiro and spent an afternoon on a nearby beach.
We did manage to get a chart for the area to the east of Vilamoura and yesterday we went about an hour out and nosed into Ria Formosa where we anchored off Ilha de Barreta, a nature park surrounded by long golden beaches. We lazed on one of the beaches for the afternoon before returning to Vilamoura for a barbeque on board.
When we left harbour this morning, there was a surprisingly heavy swell and we anticipated a bumpy trip. We hadn't actually decided where to spend the day as we couldn't get to Santo Antonio until early evening due to the tides, but the conditions pretty much dictated that we head back to Ria Formosa which turned out to be an idyllic choice. By the time we got there, the wind had dropped and we had a delicious day in the sun, with a warm breeze rocking us gently at anchor.
We moved on in the late afternoon, avoiding the numerous pots on our way to Rio Guardiana, the border between Portugal and Spain. Getting into port was an interesting challenge, with both the wind and the tide pushing hard on the stern, but the negotiation of the entrance was immaculate (I would praise the Skipper, but he'd only get big headed...) and now here we are, tied up in Portugal and looking across the river to Spain!
Thursday, 25 June 2009
Lagos to Vilamoura – Tuesday 23rd June 2009
If you’ve been reading this blog thinking “lucky beggars” then don’t bother reading any more because it just gets better, and I don’t want to raise your blood pressure!
We had a fab 3 days in Lagos, although with the temperature nudging up to 40 degrees at the weekend, it was too hot to do very much. We managed a couple of dinghy trips to the nearby coves where we relaxed on the beach and then explored the rocky outcrops and caves on the way back to the marina. Before we left Jersey we had heard about the Rally Portugal so we were delighted to see the yachts from the UK arriving in Lagos prior to our departure on Tuesday morning.
The sky was cloudless when we set off, calling the marina office once we were ready to depart so they could raise the bridge to allow us to pass through, then it was a quick hop down to the open sea. As we headed out, a customs boat shadowed us for a while but obviously decided we were ok, because they came alongside briefly and then waved us on. We didn’t bother getting up to full speed, and instead meandered gently along the coast, looking longingly at some of the deserted beaches which we hope to return to during the course of the week. We nosed into Carvoiera, the most picturesque resort along the coast, and promised ourselves a return visit.
By lunchtime we had arrived in Vilamoura, a modern, purpose built marina with dozens of restaurants along the quayside and teeming with life. We moored up, with the wind trying to blow us off, and then spent the afternoon giving Zaffina a good clean, inside and out. Well, we have to do some work occasionally!
If you’ve been reading this blog thinking “lucky beggars” then don’t bother reading any more because it just gets better, and I don’t want to raise your blood pressure!
We had a fab 3 days in Lagos, although with the temperature nudging up to 40 degrees at the weekend, it was too hot to do very much. We managed a couple of dinghy trips to the nearby coves where we relaxed on the beach and then explored the rocky outcrops and caves on the way back to the marina. Before we left Jersey we had heard about the Rally Portugal so we were delighted to see the yachts from the UK arriving in Lagos prior to our departure on Tuesday morning.
The sky was cloudless when we set off, calling the marina office once we were ready to depart so they could raise the bridge to allow us to pass through, then it was a quick hop down to the open sea. As we headed out, a customs boat shadowed us for a while but obviously decided we were ok, because they came alongside briefly and then waved us on. We didn’t bother getting up to full speed, and instead meandered gently along the coast, looking longingly at some of the deserted beaches which we hope to return to during the course of the week. We nosed into Carvoiera, the most picturesque resort along the coast, and promised ourselves a return visit.
By lunchtime we had arrived in Vilamoura, a modern, purpose built marina with dozens of restaurants along the quayside and teeming with life. We moored up, with the wind trying to blow us off, and then spent the afternoon giving Zaffina a good clean, inside and out. Well, we have to do some work occasionally!
Sunday, 21 June 2009
We ended up staying six nights in Cascais, our longest stop so far. The weather was fabulous and we loved the area so we hired a car and saw a few of the sights and lazed on a few of the beaches. In the mornings, the first stop was the bakery in town, which was a ten minute walk away and had an amazing range of breads on offer. The lowlight of the stay was listening to a busker at a beach café who was more out of tune than either Frank or myself…quite an accomplishment!
Tim and Annabelle had to leave on Friday to pick up their car from Gijon and drive back up to St Malo over the weekend. It was cheaper and more convenient for them to fly to Oviedo than to take the train north, so we took them to the airport in Lisbon yesterday morning and then returned to Cascais for a lazy day on the boat. Rather than staying in harbour, we took her out into the bay and dropped the anchor, where we ate lunch then swam off the back of Zaffina. It was baking hot.
This morning dawned still and bright, and we managed to rouse ourselves to leave the marina just after 7am – already it was hot, and with almost no wind at all, the only thing we had to worry about was the swell. Oh, and the pots! We had encountered more pots in Portuguese waters than along the whole of the French and Spanish coasts put together, and we feared that the journey ahead would require us to be on constant alert. It was a pleasant surprise to discover that once we were out to sea the pots petered out altogether and we only saw about two in four hours. Or maybe we didn’t see the markers on the others and simply drove over them!
The swell was quite heavy but as it was on the starboard quarter, it pushed us forwards all the way. We were like a couple of kids when we reached Cabo Sao Vicente, the lighthouse there marking the southwest point of Europe, and turned onto the Algarve. We’ve done it! We may not be in the Med yet, but we’ve negotiated the Atlantic coasts of France, Spain and Portugal, and our reward was to turn into calm waters and perfect conditions, with the scent of pines wafting off the land. Lunch was spent at anchor in a small cove where we lazed the afternoon away before making the short crossing to Lagos. It’s still hot and quite breezy now and we’re off to find a small café for dinner.
Tim and Annabelle had to leave on Friday to pick up their car from Gijon and drive back up to St Malo over the weekend. It was cheaper and more convenient for them to fly to Oviedo than to take the train north, so we took them to the airport in Lisbon yesterday morning and then returned to Cascais for a lazy day on the boat. Rather than staying in harbour, we took her out into the bay and dropped the anchor, where we ate lunch then swam off the back of Zaffina. It was baking hot.
This morning dawned still and bright, and we managed to rouse ourselves to leave the marina just after 7am – already it was hot, and with almost no wind at all, the only thing we had to worry about was the swell. Oh, and the pots! We had encountered more pots in Portuguese waters than along the whole of the French and Spanish coasts put together, and we feared that the journey ahead would require us to be on constant alert. It was a pleasant surprise to discover that once we were out to sea the pots petered out altogether and we only saw about two in four hours. Or maybe we didn’t see the markers on the others and simply drove over them!
The swell was quite heavy but as it was on the starboard quarter, it pushed us forwards all the way. We were like a couple of kids when we reached Cabo Sao Vicente, the lighthouse there marking the southwest point of Europe, and turned onto the Algarve. We’ve done it! We may not be in the Med yet, but we’ve negotiated the Atlantic coasts of France, Spain and Portugal, and our reward was to turn into calm waters and perfect conditions, with the scent of pines wafting off the land. Lunch was spent at anchor in a small cove where we lazed the afternoon away before making the short crossing to Lagos. It’s still hot and quite breezy now and we’re off to find a small café for dinner.
Thursday, 18 June 2009
Baiona to Caiscais. Sunday 14th June 2009
If it’s Sunday, it must be Portugal!
As the last couple of days have started overcast and then cleared up, we assumed when we woke to grey skies that the same would apply today. We had decided that, sea permitting, we would make the long trek from Baiona to Cascais, taking us into yet another country as we head Med-wards.
Sadly, we have discovered that the bakeries in Spain are not like those in France, and instead of opening at crack of dawn, you can’t buy bread until later in the morning. Tim did his usual rush up to the nearest outlet in hope of buying a warm crusty loaf but no such luck, so we set off early(ish) with just a few slices of toast for our breakfast at sea.
The weather decided not to improve but the sea conditions weren’t too bad, although there was quite a swell, as ever. With four of us on board, we were able to have a couple of people keeping watch whilst the other two could take a break, which broke the journey up quite considerably. Within about an hour, we had passed out of Spanish waters and were sailing along the coast of Portugal. The first things we noticed were the pots…pots everywhere and markers cunningly chosen so they blended in with the background making some of them almost impossible to spot! From then on, we had to be extra alert throughout the whole journey in order to avoid catching a pot and transplanting it somewhere nearer Cascais!
With a big swell on the stern quarter for most of the journey, we were delighted with Zaffina’s performance. She really gave us a remarkably smooth crossing considering the conditions, and never bumped or jarred through the water. With every trip, we become more confident with our boat and more thrilled with the way she handles.
It took us almost eleven hours to reach our final destination, the longest trip we’ve done so far and certainly the longest we intend to do. It was quite tiring, despite the breaks, and we were all relieved to turn into the entrance to Cascais, out of a busy sea and strong breeze into complete calm and, suddenly, beautiful hot weather! Now Annabelle is preparing dinner, Tim is heating the barbeque, Frank is studying the charts and all is well with the world.
If it’s Sunday, it must be Portugal!
As the last couple of days have started overcast and then cleared up, we assumed when we woke to grey skies that the same would apply today. We had decided that, sea permitting, we would make the long trek from Baiona to Cascais, taking us into yet another country as we head Med-wards.
Sadly, we have discovered that the bakeries in Spain are not like those in France, and instead of opening at crack of dawn, you can’t buy bread until later in the morning. Tim did his usual rush up to the nearest outlet in hope of buying a warm crusty loaf but no such luck, so we set off early(ish) with just a few slices of toast for our breakfast at sea.
The weather decided not to improve but the sea conditions weren’t too bad, although there was quite a swell, as ever. With four of us on board, we were able to have a couple of people keeping watch whilst the other two could take a break, which broke the journey up quite considerably. Within about an hour, we had passed out of Spanish waters and were sailing along the coast of Portugal. The first things we noticed were the pots…pots everywhere and markers cunningly chosen so they blended in with the background making some of them almost impossible to spot! From then on, we had to be extra alert throughout the whole journey in order to avoid catching a pot and transplanting it somewhere nearer Cascais!
With a big swell on the stern quarter for most of the journey, we were delighted with Zaffina’s performance. She really gave us a remarkably smooth crossing considering the conditions, and never bumped or jarred through the water. With every trip, we become more confident with our boat and more thrilled with the way she handles.
It took us almost eleven hours to reach our final destination, the longest trip we’ve done so far and certainly the longest we intend to do. It was quite tiring, despite the breaks, and we were all relieved to turn into the entrance to Cascais, out of a busy sea and strong breeze into complete calm and, suddenly, beautiful hot weather! Now Annabelle is preparing dinner, Tim is heating the barbeque, Frank is studying the charts and all is well with the world.
Sorry about the delay with getting this posted, problems with communications systems!
Ria de Arosa to Baiona – Friday 12th June
There was still a hint of daylight in the sky when we finally went to bed at around midnight on Thursday to spend our first night at anchor. The wind came up during the small hours, which made for a noisy night with small waves slapping incessantly against the hull. Fortunately, the wine and the brandy meant that we were undisturbed!
We woke to grey skies and the sea still slopping around so we moved the boat to a more sheltered position on the other side of the island before Annabelle and I nipped up to the village to buy some provisions. The local supermarket was well stocked for anyone in dire need of cleaning products, but as far as food was concerned, it was a big disappointment. We managed to find enough to keep the wolf from the door and returned to Zaffina to prepare lunch.
Frank and I took the dinghy across to a beautiful islet in the middle of the Ria, encircled by a glorious sandy beach. Frank swam; I dipped my toes in (it’s getting warmer, pretty soon I’ll have a proper swim!) By now the sky was cloudless and the temperature rose throughout the afternoon.
Around 5pm we lifted the anchor and set off for our next port of call, Baiona. The trip was brief, less than 2 hours, and the scenery was lovely as we slipped between the Galician islands and the coast. The marina at Baiona was large and welcoming, and we all loved the town, so instead of staying for just one night as originally intended, we spent two nights there, enjoying a spectacular sunset on the last night when the sky turned from gold to pink to purple as darkness drew in.
Ria de Arosa to Baiona – Friday 12th June
There was still a hint of daylight in the sky when we finally went to bed at around midnight on Thursday to spend our first night at anchor. The wind came up during the small hours, which made for a noisy night with small waves slapping incessantly against the hull. Fortunately, the wine and the brandy meant that we were undisturbed!
We woke to grey skies and the sea still slopping around so we moved the boat to a more sheltered position on the other side of the island before Annabelle and I nipped up to the village to buy some provisions. The local supermarket was well stocked for anyone in dire need of cleaning products, but as far as food was concerned, it was a big disappointment. We managed to find enough to keep the wolf from the door and returned to Zaffina to prepare lunch.
Frank and I took the dinghy across to a beautiful islet in the middle of the Ria, encircled by a glorious sandy beach. Frank swam; I dipped my toes in (it’s getting warmer, pretty soon I’ll have a proper swim!) By now the sky was cloudless and the temperature rose throughout the afternoon.
Around 5pm we lifted the anchor and set off for our next port of call, Baiona. The trip was brief, less than 2 hours, and the scenery was lovely as we slipped between the Galician islands and the coast. The marina at Baiona was large and welcoming, and we all loved the town, so instead of staying for just one night as originally intended, we spent two nights there, enjoying a spectacular sunset on the last night when the sky turned from gold to pink to purple as darkness drew in.
Friday, 12 June 2009
Coruna to Ria de Arosa – Thursday 11th June 2009
After an overcast day in Coruna when all we did was move the boat to refuel and pop into town for lunch, we were pleased to wake this morning to peace and calm…no wind. Tim went to get bread for breakfast and was promptly abducted by aliens. Actually, that’s not strictly true, but he certainly took his time and as soon as he was back, we were ready to depart.
It was still overcast as we slipped out of the marina at 9,30am but the best thing was that the surface of the water was unruffled, although there was a residual swell from the winds a couple of nights earlier. As we headed west, the swell increased but otherwise the sea remained calm and the skies started to clear. The nearby hillsides were peppered with wind turbines, some moving, some still; they obviously don’t need planning permission for them around here!
Having steadily headed west since we hit Spain, today we finally had a change of direction as we turned the corner at the notorious Cape Finistere, and it’s all downhill from now on! We celebrated this tremendous landmark with a bottle of champagne, and celebrated some more when the swell suddenly decreased, the remaining cloud cleared away and we motored into some great boating conditions. There are loads of Rias, or inlets, around here so we nosed into the Ria de Arosa and dropped anchor in a sheltered bay where we had a late lunch and spent the remainder of the afternoon sunbathing.
As I write, the sun is starting its descent towards the headland, the chicken is roasting in the oven and the ice is melting in the pineau. Don’t think we’ll be moving tonight -unless the anchor drags!
After an overcast day in Coruna when all we did was move the boat to refuel and pop into town for lunch, we were pleased to wake this morning to peace and calm…no wind. Tim went to get bread for breakfast and was promptly abducted by aliens. Actually, that’s not strictly true, but he certainly took his time and as soon as he was back, we were ready to depart.
It was still overcast as we slipped out of the marina at 9,30am but the best thing was that the surface of the water was unruffled, although there was a residual swell from the winds a couple of nights earlier. As we headed west, the swell increased but otherwise the sea remained calm and the skies started to clear. The nearby hillsides were peppered with wind turbines, some moving, some still; they obviously don’t need planning permission for them around here!
Having steadily headed west since we hit Spain, today we finally had a change of direction as we turned the corner at the notorious Cape Finistere, and it’s all downhill from now on! We celebrated this tremendous landmark with a bottle of champagne, and celebrated some more when the swell suddenly decreased, the remaining cloud cleared away and we motored into some great boating conditions. There are loads of Rias, or inlets, around here so we nosed into the Ria de Arosa and dropped anchor in a sheltered bay where we had a late lunch and spent the remainder of the afternoon sunbathing.
As I write, the sun is starting its descent towards the headland, the chicken is roasting in the oven and the ice is melting in the pineau. Don’t think we’ll be moving tonight -unless the anchor drags!
Tuesday, 9 June 2009
Gijon to Coruna - Tuesday 9th June 2009
Well you can forget all that "the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain" nonsense. It falls mainly on the boat, or at the very least, on the marina!
We ended up being stuck in Gijon for five nights, and overall, it wasn't a bad place to be stuck. We hired a car on Saturday and went out into the mountains, and then late in the evening, Tim and Annabelle arrived, after a mammoth drive through France and Northern Spain. Sunday was a recovery day for them, although we did manage a fairly long walk along the promenade which ended with lunch (and rain) at a seaside bar. Yesterday we went to Ovieda, a pretty in places town about half an hour's drive from Gijon, where the local custom is to pour a glass of very rough cider from a great height and partially miss the glass so half of it lands on the floor. Not sure of the significance of that one, but we think it was probably that the cider was so bad that you wouldn't want to drink a full glass of it!
Having been stuck in port for a few days, we decided to take a chance on the weather this morning - the forecasts we checked all contradicted one another, but the general concensus was that it may be a bit unpleasant, but shouldn't be too bad. Out of Gijon things seemed pretty good, for the first 15 mins or so! Then it got decidedly iffy (that's a well known boating term, by the way) as we neared the Cabo de Penas. After that, it was a mish mash of a sea for most of the way with the wind seemingly changing direction all the time. We debated whether to stop off at Vivero, which would have cut the journey down by a few hours, but we would have been obliged to moor off the marina which we didn't particularly fancy with a swell running. So...we pressed on. And on. And on. The journey from Vivero to Coruna went very slowly, especially as the blue sky which had been ahead of us changed to grey as we approached and the sun disappeared completely.
By the time we could see our destination, the swell had risen as had the wind and the rain started coming down. We were more than a little relieved to get into port, tie up and get the kettle on. And guess what? The forecast is not looking great, so we'll probably be stuck here tomorrow.
Oh well, there's always shopping!
Well you can forget all that "the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain" nonsense. It falls mainly on the boat, or at the very least, on the marina!
We ended up being stuck in Gijon for five nights, and overall, it wasn't a bad place to be stuck. We hired a car on Saturday and went out into the mountains, and then late in the evening, Tim and Annabelle arrived, after a mammoth drive through France and Northern Spain. Sunday was a recovery day for them, although we did manage a fairly long walk along the promenade which ended with lunch (and rain) at a seaside bar. Yesterday we went to Ovieda, a pretty in places town about half an hour's drive from Gijon, where the local custom is to pour a glass of very rough cider from a great height and partially miss the glass so half of it lands on the floor. Not sure of the significance of that one, but we think it was probably that the cider was so bad that you wouldn't want to drink a full glass of it!
Having been stuck in port for a few days, we decided to take a chance on the weather this morning - the forecasts we checked all contradicted one another, but the general concensus was that it may be a bit unpleasant, but shouldn't be too bad. Out of Gijon things seemed pretty good, for the first 15 mins or so! Then it got decidedly iffy (that's a well known boating term, by the way) as we neared the Cabo de Penas. After that, it was a mish mash of a sea for most of the way with the wind seemingly changing direction all the time. We debated whether to stop off at Vivero, which would have cut the journey down by a few hours, but we would have been obliged to moor off the marina which we didn't particularly fancy with a swell running. So...we pressed on. And on. And on. The journey from Vivero to Coruna went very slowly, especially as the blue sky which had been ahead of us changed to grey as we approached and the sun disappeared completely.
By the time we could see our destination, the swell had risen as had the wind and the rain started coming down. We were more than a little relieved to get into port, tie up and get the kettle on. And guess what? The forecast is not looking great, so we'll probably be stuck here tomorrow.
Oh well, there's always shopping!
Friday, 5 June 2009
Santander to Gijon – Thursday 4th June 2009
Due mainly to the fact that the marina was so far out of town, we decided to just spend two nights in Santander, during which time we gave Zaffina a good clean and then explored Santander itself. Lunch was an interesting experience, as our lack of Spanish meant we could understand next to nothing on the menu and had to guess at what to order…fortunately with a great deal of success, although I doubt if we’ll ever know what Frank’s main course actually was!
The sun, which had shone almost continuously yesterday, was conspicuously absent this morning when we emerged from our cabin but the wind was still low so we swiftly fuelled up and set off.
Going down river was pleasant and warm, but once we got out into the open, the sea was very confused (I know the feeling) and not as calm as we’d hoped. Things improved the further west we went, although the cloud cover never cleared and it was more than a bit chilly. The scenery was spectacular and had the weather been nicer, we would have dropped anchor for lunch in one of the many little coves we passed. Slightly inland, the mountains were shrouded in cloud and a hazy mist onshore marred the visibility.
Strangely enough, although today’s journey was only half the length of Tuesdays, it really dragged and we were relieved when we finally got to Gijon. The sun put in a brief appearance but at the same time, it started to rain as we headed towards the harbour. It’s grey and wet this evening and, with a poor forecast, it looks as though we may be here for a couple of days, so we plan to hire a car and explore the surrounding countryside.
Due mainly to the fact that the marina was so far out of town, we decided to just spend two nights in Santander, during which time we gave Zaffina a good clean and then explored Santander itself. Lunch was an interesting experience, as our lack of Spanish meant we could understand next to nothing on the menu and had to guess at what to order…fortunately with a great deal of success, although I doubt if we’ll ever know what Frank’s main course actually was!
The sun, which had shone almost continuously yesterday, was conspicuously absent this morning when we emerged from our cabin but the wind was still low so we swiftly fuelled up and set off.
Going down river was pleasant and warm, but once we got out into the open, the sea was very confused (I know the feeling) and not as calm as we’d hoped. Things improved the further west we went, although the cloud cover never cleared and it was more than a bit chilly. The scenery was spectacular and had the weather been nicer, we would have dropped anchor for lunch in one of the many little coves we passed. Slightly inland, the mountains were shrouded in cloud and a hazy mist onshore marred the visibility.
Strangely enough, although today’s journey was only half the length of Tuesdays, it really dragged and we were relieved when we finally got to Gijon. The sun put in a brief appearance but at the same time, it started to rain as we headed towards the harbour. It’s grey and wet this evening and, with a poor forecast, it looks as though we may be here for a couple of days, so we plan to hire a car and explore the surrounding countryside.
Tuesday, 2 June 2009
Royan to Santander - Tuesday 2nd June
We did it, we did it, we did it! Arrived in Spain this afternoon. I'd like to say they put the flags out to greet us, but they didn't even come down to the pontoon to help us moor up and the wind was an utter nightmare. But enough of our wind, the journey...
Up with the lark, we were back on our way by 7.20am and almost struck disaster straight out of the port. The passage out was narrower than indicated and meant that we had 0 feet between us and rock bottom, or in this case, sandy bottom, according to our read out. For once we were glad to find ourselves in deep water, and off we went, down the Gironde and out to sea again. The sun was shining, the waves were small and we were the only pleasure craft around; strangely there was not one sail on the horizon nor small motor boat zipping along.
We had to do a dogleg to avoid the French target practice site (perhaps that's where all the other boats disappeared to?) so went straight out from the river mouth and then turned south after an hour and a half. There was nothing to see except sea and sky for about six hours, but surprisingly, the time passed swiftly and our excitement mounted as we neared the Spanish coast. Oh yes, except dolphins - we passed loads of them en route. The coastline which appeared out of the mist was entirely different from that which we'd left behind in France. Here it was mountainous and green, with small towns and villages coming into view as we drew closer.
Sadly we were too large to moor at the town marina and had to go some distance up river, so we're a bit out in the sticks. With no one to guide us in, we just headed for an empty berth and eventually managed to moor up, despite the wind doing its darndest to blow us off the pontoon. And amazingly, they've allowed us to stay put, so here we are for the next couple of days, relieved and delighted to be in a new country.
We did it, we did it, we did it! Arrived in Spain this afternoon. I'd like to say they put the flags out to greet us, but they didn't even come down to the pontoon to help us moor up and the wind was an utter nightmare. But enough of our wind, the journey...
Up with the lark, we were back on our way by 7.20am and almost struck disaster straight out of the port. The passage out was narrower than indicated and meant that we had 0 feet between us and rock bottom, or in this case, sandy bottom, according to our read out. For once we were glad to find ourselves in deep water, and off we went, down the Gironde and out to sea again. The sun was shining, the waves were small and we were the only pleasure craft around; strangely there was not one sail on the horizon nor small motor boat zipping along.
We had to do a dogleg to avoid the French target practice site (perhaps that's where all the other boats disappeared to?) so went straight out from the river mouth and then turned south after an hour and a half. There was nothing to see except sea and sky for about six hours, but surprisingly, the time passed swiftly and our excitement mounted as we neared the Spanish coast. Oh yes, except dolphins - we passed loads of them en route. The coastline which appeared out of the mist was entirely different from that which we'd left behind in France. Here it was mountainous and green, with small towns and villages coming into view as we drew closer.
Sadly we were too large to moor at the town marina and had to go some distance up river, so we're a bit out in the sticks. With no one to guide us in, we just headed for an empty berth and eventually managed to moor up, despite the wind doing its darndest to blow us off the pontoon. And amazingly, they've allowed us to stay put, so here we are for the next couple of days, relieved and delighted to be in a new country.
Ile de Re to Royan - Monday 1st June
Our three days on the Ile de Re were fabulous. Dinner at the Balleine Bleue, watching the sun go down and sipping champagne was doubly fabulous! We spent a couple of mornings doing chores – cleaning the windows then deciding that they were too smeary and needed cleaning again…and again…and again, plus catching up on other odds and sods! We were told that it was a holiday weekend in France, and that was probably the reason why the marina was so full. Apparently they managed to squash 360 boats in there on Saturday night, and it was almost possible to walk from one side to the other just by hopping from deck to deck. Such a busy marina provides endless entertainment, from unskilled skippers trying to avoid other boats (sometimes successfully, sometimes not,) to impromptu parties, from dogs being winched down the wall onto yachts to enthusiasts who spend their entire time tinkering on their boats, there’s never a dull moment.
The weather was glorious throughout the weekend and on Sunday we hired bicycles and cycled along the dedicated paths through vineyards and market gardens to La Couarde, a pretty little town where the market was just winding up, stall holders putting away the local cheeses, saucisson and pineau which had been on sale that morning. We continued our bike ride to Grandjonc, where we spent the rest of the afternoon lying on the beach; well, I did, whilst Frank braved the cold and the waves and had his first dip of the year in the northern hemisphere!
We had intended staying until Tuesday, but with good seas forecast and the wind in a favourable direction, we decided to cut things short and depart this morning. After a quick trip to the market to stock up on essentials like ripe cherries and melons, we battened down hatches and headed once again into the great blue yonder. Our course took us under the famous bridge linking the Ile de Re with La Rochelle, then around the outside of Ile d’Oleron, which meant we were further south than on any of our previous boating trips. We decided to make today’s trip a relatively short one, so turned into the Gironde River and headed up to Royan, putting ourselves in pole position to depart early tomorrow morning. All being well, tonight will be our last night in France and by tomorrow evening, we will finally be onto the Spanish coast.
Hasta la vista, baby. Is that Spanish?
Our three days on the Ile de Re were fabulous. Dinner at the Balleine Bleue, watching the sun go down and sipping champagne was doubly fabulous! We spent a couple of mornings doing chores – cleaning the windows then deciding that they were too smeary and needed cleaning again…and again…and again, plus catching up on other odds and sods! We were told that it was a holiday weekend in France, and that was probably the reason why the marina was so full. Apparently they managed to squash 360 boats in there on Saturday night, and it was almost possible to walk from one side to the other just by hopping from deck to deck. Such a busy marina provides endless entertainment, from unskilled skippers trying to avoid other boats (sometimes successfully, sometimes not,) to impromptu parties, from dogs being winched down the wall onto yachts to enthusiasts who spend their entire time tinkering on their boats, there’s never a dull moment.
The weather was glorious throughout the weekend and on Sunday we hired bicycles and cycled along the dedicated paths through vineyards and market gardens to La Couarde, a pretty little town where the market was just winding up, stall holders putting away the local cheeses, saucisson and pineau which had been on sale that morning. We continued our bike ride to Grandjonc, where we spent the rest of the afternoon lying on the beach; well, I did, whilst Frank braved the cold and the waves and had his first dip of the year in the northern hemisphere!
We had intended staying until Tuesday, but with good seas forecast and the wind in a favourable direction, we decided to cut things short and depart this morning. After a quick trip to the market to stock up on essentials like ripe cherries and melons, we battened down hatches and headed once again into the great blue yonder. Our course took us under the famous bridge linking the Ile de Re with La Rochelle, then around the outside of Ile d’Oleron, which meant we were further south than on any of our previous boating trips. We decided to make today’s trip a relatively short one, so turned into the Gironde River and headed up to Royan, putting ourselves in pole position to depart early tomorrow morning. All being well, tonight will be our last night in France and by tomorrow evening, we will finally be onto the Spanish coast.
Hasta la vista, baby. Is that Spanish?
Sunday, 31 May 2009
Piriac to Ile de Re (Thursday 28th May)
Today started with a cup of tea in a gloomy Piriac and finished with a glass of chilled rose, sitting in glorious sunshine in St Martin, the prettiest port on the Ile de Re.
After a windy night, we assumed that we would be stuck in the marina at Piriac for a couple of days, but when we stuck our heads out this morning, the wind had dropped away almost completely and the calm sea offered the perfect opportunity to move on. So, instead of the lay in we had anticipated, it was a quick trip to the bakery for a fresh baguette, a visit to the Capitainerie to settle up and then, by 9.30 we were off, making a more elegant exit than our entrance into Piriac.
All went smoothly for an hour or so, until an alarm rang out to warn us that the joystick control was no longer working – bad news, as it meant we had no stern or bow thrusters for use when mooring up. We tried everything we could think of to reset it, including shutting down all the engines and restarting, but to no avail. After an hour at low speed whilst we tried to mend the problem, Frank had a lightbulb moment and by using the emergency stop on the joystick control managed to fully reinstate the facility, much to our joint relief.
Coming along the coast past Sable d’Or, we had our first view of the terracotta roof tiles which told us that we were in a very special place – still relatively close to home but nearer in spirit to the south of France. It was an exciting reminder of the delights ahead of us when we near the end of this, our delivery voyage, later this year.
Due to the tides, the earliest we were able to get into St Martin was 6pm, so we detoured around behind the Ile de Re and went into La Rochelle to refuel. By now, the skies had cleared completely, the sun was shining, and in the shelter of the harbour, it was blazing hot. Once the tanks were full and the bank account drained, it was quick hop skip and jump to our destination, the beautiful port of St Martin. Zaffina is probably about the largest boat which could fit into this marina, and there wasn’t much room to spare as Frank skilfully negotiated her through the narrow entrance, with an audience watching from the harbour side.
A glass of rose was followed by dinner a deux sitting in a warm and sheltered cockpit, watching other arrivals and enjoying the ambiance of this delightful marina.
Today started with a cup of tea in a gloomy Piriac and finished with a glass of chilled rose, sitting in glorious sunshine in St Martin, the prettiest port on the Ile de Re.
After a windy night, we assumed that we would be stuck in the marina at Piriac for a couple of days, but when we stuck our heads out this morning, the wind had dropped away almost completely and the calm sea offered the perfect opportunity to move on. So, instead of the lay in we had anticipated, it was a quick trip to the bakery for a fresh baguette, a visit to the Capitainerie to settle up and then, by 9.30 we were off, making a more elegant exit than our entrance into Piriac.
All went smoothly for an hour or so, until an alarm rang out to warn us that the joystick control was no longer working – bad news, as it meant we had no stern or bow thrusters for use when mooring up. We tried everything we could think of to reset it, including shutting down all the engines and restarting, but to no avail. After an hour at low speed whilst we tried to mend the problem, Frank had a lightbulb moment and by using the emergency stop on the joystick control managed to fully reinstate the facility, much to our joint relief.
Coming along the coast past Sable d’Or, we had our first view of the terracotta roof tiles which told us that we were in a very special place – still relatively close to home but nearer in spirit to the south of France. It was an exciting reminder of the delights ahead of us when we near the end of this, our delivery voyage, later this year.
Due to the tides, the earliest we were able to get into St Martin was 6pm, so we detoured around behind the Ile de Re and went into La Rochelle to refuel. By now, the skies had cleared completely, the sun was shining, and in the shelter of the harbour, it was blazing hot. Once the tanks were full and the bank account drained, it was quick hop skip and jump to our destination, the beautiful port of St Martin. Zaffina is probably about the largest boat which could fit into this marina, and there wasn’t much room to spare as Frank skilfully negotiated her through the narrow entrance, with an audience watching from the harbour side.
A glass of rose was followed by dinner a deux sitting in a warm and sheltered cockpit, watching other arrivals and enjoying the ambiance of this delightful marina.
Thursday, 28 May 2009
Ste Marine to Piriac
After three nights in Ste Marine, it was time to get back on track and continue our journey south. We had anticipated leaving port first thing in the morning, filling our tanks as soon as staff arrived at the refuelling berth on the opposite shore, and then getting on our way. However, we were advised by marina staff to wait until low tide when the river would not be running so fast and the crossing would be easier, so we delayed our departure by several hours. What a mistake that was! At 8am the river was almost motionless with no breeze to disturb its calm surface, whereas at 2pm, when we made the crossing, the wind had risen and conditions proved far more challenging. It was after 3pm by the time we were ready to depart and we were in two minds as to whether to go or stay.
We decided to head out to sea and see what things were like…and we were pleasantly surprised. Although there was quite a breeze, the swell was minimal and once the wind was behind us, the going was fairly easy. The trip along the coast was also a trip down memory lane, as we recalled events and experiences from previous holidays in the area: the barbeque on the Ile de Houat, swimming in the Aven river, spotting a pod of whales nearby, and, oh yes, the time I almost drove us straight into the side of a yacht! Maybe that one is best forgotten!
As we made the final turn into Piriac, our next stop, the wind hit us full on and we had a few unpleasant minutes as we were heading into port. Once through the entrance, Zaffina was hit by another strong gust, which almost sent her careering into pontoon D – not a good idea when you’re booked onto pontoon C and your fenders are out on the other side! Frank fought with the controls and narrowly managed to avoid the collision, and it was with relief that we finally tied up in our appointed place and poured a couple of strong drinks to restore our shattered nerves.
After three nights in Ste Marine, it was time to get back on track and continue our journey south. We had anticipated leaving port first thing in the morning, filling our tanks as soon as staff arrived at the refuelling berth on the opposite shore, and then getting on our way. However, we were advised by marina staff to wait until low tide when the river would not be running so fast and the crossing would be easier, so we delayed our departure by several hours. What a mistake that was! At 8am the river was almost motionless with no breeze to disturb its calm surface, whereas at 2pm, when we made the crossing, the wind had risen and conditions proved far more challenging. It was after 3pm by the time we were ready to depart and we were in two minds as to whether to go or stay.
We decided to head out to sea and see what things were like…and we were pleasantly surprised. Although there was quite a breeze, the swell was minimal and once the wind was behind us, the going was fairly easy. The trip along the coast was also a trip down memory lane, as we recalled events and experiences from previous holidays in the area: the barbeque on the Ile de Houat, swimming in the Aven river, spotting a pod of whales nearby, and, oh yes, the time I almost drove us straight into the side of a yacht! Maybe that one is best forgotten!
As we made the final turn into Piriac, our next stop, the wind hit us full on and we had a few unpleasant minutes as we were heading into port. Once through the entrance, Zaffina was hit by another strong gust, which almost sent her careering into pontoon D – not a good idea when you’re booked onto pontoon C and your fenders are out on the other side! Frank fought with the controls and narrowly managed to avoid the collision, and it was with relief that we finally tied up in our appointed place and poured a couple of strong drinks to restore our shattered nerves.
Monday, 25 May 2009
Brest to St Marine
After the long trek from Jersey, we planned a shorte trip for our next outing, but one which we knew could be uncomfortable - from Brest down to St Marine, one of our favourite marinas. The uncomfortable bit was the Raz de Sein, a notorious piece of water which we have negotiated several times in the past, in varied conditions from reasonable to very unpleasant and, on one memorable occasion, in a storm with thunder roaring and lightening flashing around us.
As we left Brest behind, the swell started to rise again and the nearer we got to the Raz, the stronger the sea became. We altered course slightly to avoid the worst of the slop and promised ourselves that if things got too bad, we would turn tail and head for Morgat. As we approached the lighthouses, Zaffina took a couple of waves side on, but she shrugged them off with almost no effort and suddenly we were past the worst and cheered as we turned the corner.
From then on, conditions just got better and better, with the remaining swell pushing us along. Seagulls were playing chicken by flying under the bow and only just avoiding being hit by the rail as we motored along, and the sea took on that oily appearance which tells you that the wind has dropped off completely.
Mooring went like clockwork and in no time at all we had the covers up and were sitting in the cockpit soaking up the sun - I'd like to say with a Pimms to hand, but it was just a mug of Earl Grey!
On a glorious, calm, warm evening we sat outside the Restaurant du Port for dinner, as the sun disappeared and a pearly night descended. This is the life!
Or it was until 2am when a massive storm broke and we had to drag ourselves out of deep, deep sleep to get the cockpit covers rolled down and back into place!
As we left Brest behind, the swell started to rise again and the nearer we got to the Raz, the stronger the sea became. We altered course slightly to avoid the worst of the slop and promised ourselves that if things got too bad, we would turn tail and head for Morgat. As we approached the lighthouses, Zaffina took a couple of waves side on, but she shrugged them off with almost no effort and suddenly we were past the worst and cheered as we turned the corner.
From then on, conditions just got better and better, with the remaining swell pushing us along. Seagulls were playing chicken by flying under the bow and only just avoiding being hit by the rail as we motored along, and the sea took on that oily appearance which tells you that the wind has dropped off completely.
Mooring went like clockwork and in no time at all we had the covers up and were sitting in the cockpit soaking up the sun - I'd like to say with a Pimms to hand, but it was just a mug of Earl Grey!
On a glorious, calm, warm evening we sat outside the Restaurant du Port for dinner, as the sun disappeared and a pearly night descended. This is the life!
Or it was until 2am when a massive storm broke and we had to drag ourselves out of deep, deep sleep to get the cockpit covers rolled down and back into place!
Jersey to Brest
The blue sky overhead is slowly being replaced by white cloud as Frank and I sit here in the Port du Chateau in Brest, tired but happy. Today we undertook the first leg of our mammoth trip from Jersey down to the Med on board Zaffina, our gorgeous Azimut 62.
Christian (my son) and Leonie (his girlfriend) elected to join us for this part of the trip, along with another friend, Danny. I’m not sure they still thought it was such a great idea once underway, as we were less than an hour out of Jersey when we encountered a messy swell. Zaffina handled the sea brilliantly, she is a fantastic boat in unpleasant conditions, as we had found out when we sea trialled her prior to purchase, but even so, the confused movement of the waves made us all feel a little queasy (a sensation not helped by the consumption of red wine at La Cantina last night, which was now causing my brain to tap against the back of my skull.) The swell eventually abated, only to be replaced by more chop on the water as we neared the coast of France, and from then on and throughout almost the entire journey it was either swell or chop. Considering this was a bank holiday weekend in both France and the UK, we were surprised by how few boats we saw en route – perhaps they knew something we didn’t!
After more than five hours, things finally improved. As we passed out of the Chenal du Four, the sea calmed to the sort of conditions we had anticipated and would have liked for the whole journey, and we eventually motored into Brest in brilliant sunshine. The torr du Chateau has only been open for a few months, and although some of the facilities have yet to come on line, they made us very welcome and we feel very happy to be here.
Christian, Leonie and Danny were relieved to get back onto Terra Firma, safe in the knowledge that their trip back to Jersey on Condor will take less than two hours! We’re looking forward to our next step and hoping the weather will be a little kinder to us tomorrow!
Thursday, 21 May 2009
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