Marina del Este to Cartagena - 31st July 2009

Had an early start today when the boat next to us decided to start the engines before we were even awake and then kept them running for a good 15 mins until they left port. We were less than amused as were the people on the boat the other side but if we run into them again, we'll get our revenge! We didn't leave port until several hours later, in fact we were delayed because the bread was still in the oven at the little supermarket and we had to wait for it to come out before we could have our breakfast! The sea was great once we got out, smooth as ice and silvery blue as we set off along the coast. We went to Granada yesterday, to visit the Alhambra Palace which was fantastic, so we'd already seen some of the coast we were passing today from a different perspective. A couple of hours out and the scenery changed, flat and pretty uninspiring after the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra Nevada.
Originally we were just going to do a short hop but the conditions were so good that we decided to move on to Cartagena which meant an 8 hour trip. The countryside went from flat to mountainous but very arid and unwelcoming and we were happy to be leaving it behind.
A couple of hours out from Cartagena, we came across what we thought at first were dolphins, but turned out to be whales. We had an awesome, memorable, fantastic half hour watching them play around the boat. They were clearly enjoying themselves as they dived beneath the bow, turned somersaults and generally entertained us, it was just amazing.
Now we're in Cartagena, it's 10.30 at night and still hot! We're moored alongside the quay and it's like being in a goldfish bowl because everyone who passes (and there's non stop ambulatory traffic) tries to poke their head in for a look. Don't think it's going to be a very quiet night somehow!

Benalmadena to Marina del Este - 29 July 2009

We had intended setting off earlyish in the morning for our next port of call but instead we had a lazy start to the day and by the time we'd had our breakfast and then a surprise visit from the Azimut agent for southern Spain, most of the morning was gone. So was the sunshine! It was hot but overcast as we set off but within a quarter or an hour or so, visibility suddenly decreased as we were enveloped in mist. We fired up the radar and kept a look out on it for other boats. At one point another Azimut loomed out of the mist just metres away to our port and travelling at full pelt - we had been expecting him but whether he was expecting to see us was another matter. The mist rose and fell and with it the visibility so we had to keep the speed down, making the short hop to Marine del Este rather longer than we'd anticipated. Not far from our destination, we dropped anchor in a bay beneath a beautiful village perched on the edge of a rocky hillside and enjoyed a late lunch and a laze through the afternoon.
When we got to the marina we had our first stern to berthing with just the two of us on board. It all went surprisingly well, although one of my arms is now six inches longer than the other. This boating lark is hard work you know!

Morocco-Gib-Benalmadena - 25th July 2009

We were ready to check out by the time the Smir marina office opened at 8 o clock, and glided out onto a still, calm sea to head back towards Gibraltar. This time, the Straits were calmer although there was still, inevitably, a bit of a swell. A little after half way across we suddenly sighted dolphins on the bow, and on the stern, and all around us. As the sea calmed, we watched with delight as they performed acrobatic displays through the water and dived up from the depths to twist in the air before disappearing back into the waves. It was a magical display and we all felt privileged to have seen it.
Once in Gib we refuelled at a wonderful 53p per litre - compared to almost 1 euro in Spain - then Frank and I rushed up to replenish the larder in Morrisons whilst Adrian, Dominic and Chantelle took the cable car up the Rock to see the apes, although Chantelle wasn't too happy when one jumped out at her! We had lunch whilst we were tied up (difficult...) and then headed back out to sea, a little worried because we knew the wind had risen whilst we were in port.
Things weren't too bad and in fact they just got better and better, so we dropped the anchor near Sotogrande and dived off the back of Zaffina and swam around the boat. Before we left, Adrian and I took the dinghy out whilst Frank took Zaffina up to 30 knots and almost mowed us down whilst I took photographs. It was a pretty scary experience, looking up at a massive motorboat bearing down on you at full speed, but the photos were worth it.
We tried to get into Marbella Marina but it was full so we had to head along the coast to Benalmadena. By now the sea was flat calm which was fortunate as it was dotted with pot markers and we had a slalom trip trying to avoid them all. The evening finished with a late barbeque on board as we reflected on visiting 3 countries and two continents all in one day! Not bad going!!

Sotogrande to Morocco - 24th July 2009

With a better weather forecast, we finally had the chance to make the trip across the Straits of Gibraltar to Morocco so we set off at around 9am. The sea was fine until we were out of the shelter of the coast and then it was hard going, as we were driving into the wind with the tide against us. That, coupled with the fact that three of us were suffering hangovers after a heavy night with very hospitable neighbours, meant that the trip was hard going and to add to our misery we were frequently showered with cold spray!
Once close to the African mainland and safely past the open sea, conditions changed dramatically and the sea was as smooth as the proverbial baby's backside. We glided across the glassy surface to Smir where the marina attendant was hugely welcoming. Check in formalities were very thorough with a doctor on hand in case any of us was suffering from swine flu (fortunately the symptoms are different to those of a hangover!)
We were moored alongside right opposite the stores and restaurants which line the quayside, and Zaffina immediately became the main focus of interest in the port. Dozens of people stopped to have their photographs taken alongside her - who can blame them, she's gorgeous! It was the oddest experience to see the Azimut moored up in port with a camel strolling past - not a sight we're likely to see again for a while!
We really enjoyed Smir, it had an exotic atmosphere with the scent of the Africa on the wind. We spent the afternoon on a hugely overcrowded beach where the most popular watersport was throwing small children into the sea! There were dozens and dozens of jetskis whizzing past at breakneck speed, narrowly avoiding bathers and powerful speed boats performing dramatic feats which threatened to throw their passengers off the back! Health and safety? You must be joking!
Sadly the weather forecast meant we could only stay one night and the following morning we were up and off before the town had come alive again.

Puerto Banus to Sotogrande - 20th July 2009

Although Puerto Banus was gorgeous it was hideously expensive and after 4 nights it was time for us to push on. We moved Zaffina over to the fuelling pontoon whilst Frank went up to the office to pay...and nearly passed out when they told him that the charge for 4 days electricity was 136 euros! When he queried it, the surly staff insisted that the figure was correct...when he refused to pay they went and checked the meter and still insisted that the figures were correct, until Frank pointed out that they were transposed. Without an apology they charged him the correct amount - 3 euros 60. I don't think we'll be welcome back in Puerto Banus!

The crossing to Sotogrande was one of the best we've had. The sea was lovely and I actually had a first opportunity to lie out on the sunbeds on the bridge as we went along. This marina is a complete contrast to the last one we were in, it is very modern, huge and very quiet. We spent a couple of afternoons on the nearby beach, had a barbeque on board one evening and sampled one of the local restaurants last night. Today (Thursday) we were intending to move on again but unless the wind drops it looks like we're here for another night. Never mind, the sun is shining and there are worse places to be marooned!

Gibraltar to Puerto Banus - 11th July 2009

After 10 days at home, we flew back to Gib and the heat! Despite all the promises that the various maintenance and repair jobs would be completed before we were back on board, next to nothing had been done - hardly surprising when we checked with the marina office and discovered that the engineer had only come on board the day before our return, not worked throughout the 10 days as promised. Fortunately, none of the tasks were particularly urgent, but it was niggling to know they still needed fixing. What was more annoying was the fact that someone had allowed the electricity to run out and the contents of the freezer had all defrosted, leaving a smelly mess in the bottom which had then refrozen.
We spent another 3 nights in Gib before refuelling at a mere 56p per litre (compared to 90+ in Spain and Portugal and more than one euro in France)and then heading along the coast to Puerto Banus. What a gorgeous port! Typical white Spanish houses with their pinky-brown terracotta tiles surrounded the harbour, with designer stores and restaurants all along the front. There was a price to pay for all this luxury - of course - the marina fees were ten times those of Gib!
After a lovely meal on Saturday evening, we retired to Zaffina for a night of being bitten to bits by mosquitoes! Their irritating buzzing continually woke us and we spent an age searching the cabin for the little blighters. Eventually we fell back asleep but a short while later I was woken by an unwelcome noise - footsteps. I went up to the saloon and realised we had company on board, so woke Frank and we went to confront the intruders. A couple of strangers descended from the flybridge as I opened the saloon doors and when confronted claimed they thought it was "my dad's boat". I insisted they give us some ID before we let them leave; there was no damage and we'll never know whether their story was true or not.
Adrian joined us again on Sunday with Dominic and Chantal, and we spent another couple of nights in Puerto Banus counting the Ferraris and feeling very small among the mega-mega yachts which live there year round.

We're back in Jersey for a week now. Thank you for all the positive comments about the Blog, which will continue (the blog and possibly the comments) when we return to Zaffina on 14th July. If you want to read about the trip in more detail, I'm doing a series in Motor Boat & Yachting magazine, the first installment of which is in the August edition. Sadly, due to a mix up somewhere along the line, it is attributed to Angela Rice but no worries. As my charming brother says, just think how poor Angela feels!

Cadiz to Gibraltar – Wednesday 1st July 2009

It was hot and sunny – yet again – when we cast off the ropes at Puerto Sherry this morning and manoeuvred back out to sea, expecting a similar trip to the one we so enjoyed yesterday. No such luck. The swell was more pronounced today and much shorter and sharper, which meant we were in for a less comfortable ride. As ever, Zaffina took it all in her stride, but the sea was doing its best to push her around and keeping on track wasn’t easy.
Whenever Frank decides to take a break and go down to the cabin, the weather deteriorates and sure enough…he went down below and the sky turned grey. Very grey. Adrian and I were convinced it was going to pour down; not the conditions we’d expected at the southernmost tip of Spain by a long chalk! It was still warm though, with the desert wind blowing up from the African mainland, which suddenly we could see clearly on our starboard horizon.
Fortunately things improved, and by the time Frank rejoined us on the bridge, the sky had cleared and the sun reappeared overhead. Africa seemed just a stone’s throw away as we passed Tarifa – which is apparently the European headquarters for windsurfing (that should have struck a warning note) – and suddenly we could see the distinctive outline of Gibraltar in the distance. We upped the speed and raced across the bay at 34 knots, cheering and laughing as we approached our destination.
We’ve had some exciting moments on this trip, but passing through the Straits of Gibraltar was one of the best. We kept looking from Spain to Gibraltar to Africa - 3 countries, 2 continents - and hugging one another, amazed and elated that we have come so far so successfully. This is both an ending and a beginning for us.
Mooring up in the shadow of The Rock was an interesting procedure, our first experience of lazy lines and mooring stern-to, but it was all completed without any drama and once safely tied up, the champagne corks were soon popping and the bubbles flowing on board Zaffina as we celebrated our arrival!