Zaffina is a beautiful Azimut 62, we're Frank and Fiona Walker and we've sailed her through the Med, from England to Greece (so far) over the past seven summers. This is our story, our adventures, our odyssey. I hope you like it.
Wednesday, 14 September 2011
Tuesday 14th September 2011
We wondered how Lily would get on with living on board. She's only 22 months old, and obviously has no experience of this lifestyle which is second nature to us, but we needn't have worried...she was great! The only place where there was room for her travel cot was in the middle of the saloon, which raised the question of whether or not she'd be happy sleeping in such a strange environment, but there wasn't any problem; if she was tired, she settled happily in there and if she wasn't, she let us know in no uncertain terms!
We decided to take things fairly gently for the week, as Jo wasn't too familiar with the boating life either. After a night in Dubrovnik, we meandered up to nearby Sipan and, after an afternoon in Jakljan, found a lovely, peaceful anchorage nearby for the night. Very conveniently, it had stone bollards for us to tie up to once we'd dropped the anchor, which ensured that we weren't bothered too much by the gentle wind which sprung up.
Our ultimate destination for their visit was Korcula, but we couldn't bypass Mljet without a stop off, and this time we went into the bay near the village where we dropped anchor and again tied up to the shore. It was a lovely position to be in and a quick hop across to one of the restaurants which line the seafront for our dinner. Last time we ate there, the place was full to capacity; this time it was almost empty, but the waiter expressed relief that it was so quiet after, he told us, three months of full houses!
Jo and Tim fell under Korcula's charm, as have all our guests, and we returned to the restaurant at which we'd had breakfast with Christian, Adam, Leonie and Brian a couple of weeks ago. It was just as good for dinner as it had been early in the morning, and Lily kept us entertained long into the evening. This time, however, we didn't follow it with a visit to the cocktail bar on top of the tower! As the weather forecast was a bit iffy, we stayed in port for a couple of night, and had one of the most overcast days we've had for a while, which included a brief shower of rain in the early morning. It was still warm, very warm and very sticky, despite the cloud, which had cleared through by late afternoon. Tim and Jo went out for a dinner a deux whilst Frank and I babysat on board Zaffina.
The next day we went back to an anchorage that has become a favourite, just across from an old monastery and by the channel leading up to Korcula town. Again, conditions were lovely as we whiled away the afternoon, and Frank and I had a fabulous dinghy trip before we left, zipping around some of the tiny islands nearby and deciding which one Christian needs to buy for his shack, his donkey and his bar! Lily got more and more confident in the water during the course of the week, and apart from swimming around in her little pink armbands, her favourite game was pushing either her Daddy or her Papa off the bathing platform and into the sea!
The trip down towards Dubrovnik was slightly bumpier than we've been used to lately, but not too bad. We put the speed up where the sea was a bit rougher and then slowed down again as we reached the shelter of the mainland coast. We had considered going into Sipan again but with the wind in the northeast, there wasn't too much shelter there so we went instead into Luka Zaton, the inlet near Dubrovnik, where we knew we would have an easy night. After an afternoon near the village, we moved deeper into the inlet to get the most protection when the breeze came up again later in the day, but we needn't have bothered; before we took the dinghy ashore for dinner, things had calmed down entirely and the whole inlet was calm for the night.
Tim, Jo and Lily left us on Thursday and, after four weeks of guests, Frank and I were looking forward to a couple of lazy days a deux. We retraced our footsteps up to Jakljan for our first night on our own, and had a lazy dinner under the stars. Frank woke me first thing in the morning (ie before 8am) and insisted that I join him for a swim whilst the water still had that calm sheen which is there before the first breath of wind flits across the sea. It was glorious, and certainly woke me up! After breakfast, we upped the anchor and took Zaffina off to explore the Stonski Canal which was lovely. We meandered up river for about half an hour, past tiny villages, wading birds and elegant villas, to salt pans and walled towns. A restaurateur was eager for us to tie up outside his establishment when we reached Stron but we declined and turned back towards the south, before striking out for Mljet.
We've frequently seen boats in a fabulous anchorage by an islet off Mljet and that was what we were aiming for as we crossed the channel between the mainland and the island. It was free when we got there, so after dropping the anchor, Frank backed Zaffina up towards a little concrete promontory and I swam ashore with the rope, making her fast to one of the bollards provided for that purpose. We were delighted with our position and had a lovely day, going across to the islet and climbing to the top where we enjoyed some sensational views and took loads of photos. In the evening, we went ashore for an extremely average dinner at a little restaurant and then returned to Zaffina for the night.
Frank woke me early in the morning. He'd been up on deck and discovered some droppings there and on the bow. Rat droppings. Horror of horrors, when we looked further, we realised that our nocturnal visitor had managed to get behind the window screens and was, without doubt, now somewhere inside our lovely Zaffina. After a search through the boat, which only showed us more droppings and some half chewed grapes, we upped anchor and returned to Dubrovnik, our romantic days at sea at an abrupt end. Frank managed to get a rat trap and after setting it with some smelly cheese, we booked into a hotel in the city, arranging with Boris, who runs a local chandlery and boat businesses, to check the trap in the morning.
He called the following morning to say no luck - more droppings but no rat. He put out more traps for us and some glue which is used locally in these situations. We booked another night in the hotel! The next day...success! Boris messaged to tell us that the rat had been caught and was now in the cage. Frank was due to go home to Jersey for a few days, but we decided that I should stay another night in the hotel just in case Roland had brought any friends with him when he'd done his trapeze act across the rope. Fortunately, this wasn't the case, and yesterday we had Zaffina thoroughly cleaned, inside and out, before I moved back on board last night. It was a bit spooky coming back alone at 10pm and hoping there wouldn't be any more nasty encounters, but the cleaners had done a fabulous job and, I'm relieved to say, there is no evidence of Mr Rat's visit remaining on board!
I have now ordered some rope shields to prevent any more unwelcome, nocturnal visitors climbing on board and we're determined never to have a repeat of such a nasty experience!
We decided to take things fairly gently for the week, as Jo wasn't too familiar with the boating life either. After a night in Dubrovnik, we meandered up to nearby Sipan and, after an afternoon in Jakljan, found a lovely, peaceful anchorage nearby for the night. Very conveniently, it had stone bollards for us to tie up to once we'd dropped the anchor, which ensured that we weren't bothered too much by the gentle wind which sprung up.
Our ultimate destination for their visit was Korcula, but we couldn't bypass Mljet without a stop off, and this time we went into the bay near the village where we dropped anchor and again tied up to the shore. It was a lovely position to be in and a quick hop across to one of the restaurants which line the seafront for our dinner. Last time we ate there, the place was full to capacity; this time it was almost empty, but the waiter expressed relief that it was so quiet after, he told us, three months of full houses!
Jo and Tim fell under Korcula's charm, as have all our guests, and we returned to the restaurant at which we'd had breakfast with Christian, Adam, Leonie and Brian a couple of weeks ago. It was just as good for dinner as it had been early in the morning, and Lily kept us entertained long into the evening. This time, however, we didn't follow it with a visit to the cocktail bar on top of the tower! As the weather forecast was a bit iffy, we stayed in port for a couple of night, and had one of the most overcast days we've had for a while, which included a brief shower of rain in the early morning. It was still warm, very warm and very sticky, despite the cloud, which had cleared through by late afternoon. Tim and Jo went out for a dinner a deux whilst Frank and I babysat on board Zaffina.
The next day we went back to an anchorage that has become a favourite, just across from an old monastery and by the channel leading up to Korcula town. Again, conditions were lovely as we whiled away the afternoon, and Frank and I had a fabulous dinghy trip before we left, zipping around some of the tiny islands nearby and deciding which one Christian needs to buy for his shack, his donkey and his bar! Lily got more and more confident in the water during the course of the week, and apart from swimming around in her little pink armbands, her favourite game was pushing either her Daddy or her Papa off the bathing platform and into the sea!
The trip down towards Dubrovnik was slightly bumpier than we've been used to lately, but not too bad. We put the speed up where the sea was a bit rougher and then slowed down again as we reached the shelter of the mainland coast. We had considered going into Sipan again but with the wind in the northeast, there wasn't too much shelter there so we went instead into Luka Zaton, the inlet near Dubrovnik, where we knew we would have an easy night. After an afternoon near the village, we moved deeper into the inlet to get the most protection when the breeze came up again later in the day, but we needn't have bothered; before we took the dinghy ashore for dinner, things had calmed down entirely and the whole inlet was calm for the night.
Tim, Jo and Lily left us on Thursday and, after four weeks of guests, Frank and I were looking forward to a couple of lazy days a deux. We retraced our footsteps up to Jakljan for our first night on our own, and had a lazy dinner under the stars. Frank woke me first thing in the morning (ie before 8am) and insisted that I join him for a swim whilst the water still had that calm sheen which is there before the first breath of wind flits across the sea. It was glorious, and certainly woke me up! After breakfast, we upped the anchor and took Zaffina off to explore the Stonski Canal which was lovely. We meandered up river for about half an hour, past tiny villages, wading birds and elegant villas, to salt pans and walled towns. A restaurateur was eager for us to tie up outside his establishment when we reached Stron but we declined and turned back towards the south, before striking out for Mljet.
We've frequently seen boats in a fabulous anchorage by an islet off Mljet and that was what we were aiming for as we crossed the channel between the mainland and the island. It was free when we got there, so after dropping the anchor, Frank backed Zaffina up towards a little concrete promontory and I swam ashore with the rope, making her fast to one of the bollards provided for that purpose. We were delighted with our position and had a lovely day, going across to the islet and climbing to the top where we enjoyed some sensational views and took loads of photos. In the evening, we went ashore for an extremely average dinner at a little restaurant and then returned to Zaffina for the night.
Frank woke me early in the morning. He'd been up on deck and discovered some droppings there and on the bow. Rat droppings. Horror of horrors, when we looked further, we realised that our nocturnal visitor had managed to get behind the window screens and was, without doubt, now somewhere inside our lovely Zaffina. After a search through the boat, which only showed us more droppings and some half chewed grapes, we upped anchor and returned to Dubrovnik, our romantic days at sea at an abrupt end. Frank managed to get a rat trap and after setting it with some smelly cheese, we booked into a hotel in the city, arranging with Boris, who runs a local chandlery and boat businesses, to check the trap in the morning.
He called the following morning to say no luck - more droppings but no rat. He put out more traps for us and some glue which is used locally in these situations. We booked another night in the hotel! The next day...success! Boris messaged to tell us that the rat had been caught and was now in the cage. Frank was due to go home to Jersey for a few days, but we decided that I should stay another night in the hotel just in case Roland had brought any friends with him when he'd done his trapeze act across the rope. Fortunately, this wasn't the case, and yesterday we had Zaffina thoroughly cleaned, inside and out, before I moved back on board last night. It was a bit spooky coming back alone at 10pm and hoping there wouldn't be any more nasty encounters, but the cleaners had done a fabulous job and, I'm relieved to say, there is no evidence of Mr Rat's visit remaining on board!
I have now ordered some rope shields to prevent any more unwelcome, nocturnal visitors climbing on board and we're determined never to have a repeat of such a nasty experience!
Thursday, 1 September 2011
Wednesday 1 September 2011
August has gone - how the heck did that happen???
As I write, we're sitting in the marina in Dubrovnik, one set of guests left yesterday (Adrian and Family) another arrives in an hour (Tim and Family) so there really hasn't been much time to get on the computer and write up what we've been up to. Apologies.
As anticipated, we went from Palmazana - I think that's the right spelling this time, but don't quote me - up to Viz, a few miles out to the west. It was one of our slightly bumpier crossings, but then we've got used to the sea being pretty calm since we've been back here, and I can't say it was bad at all. On the southwest point of Viz, we found a nice little bay to anchor in, not the prettiest but it did give good shelter which was as well because there were quiet a few whitecaps on the sea later in the day and we decided to stay there for the night, eating on board and spending the rest of the evening playing charades (with a certain amount of cheating I fear!)
Next day we pottered around the coast of Viz, getting in really close to some of the small caves which indent the rocky shore line and then, when we were a bay or two away from Viz Town, finding a submarine pen hidden from view in an inlet! Frank nosed Zaffina right in, a wierd experience, with the noise of the thrusters echoing round the chamber. After exploring it for a while we went into Viz town itself, on a blisteringly hot afternoon and immediately set out to find some cool drinks - which turned out to be a bit on the wierd side! Christian and Leonie ordered pina colada which turned out to be about half an inch of a yellowy, milky looking liquid in the bottom of a glass and nothing else! Leonie then decided to have a spritzer instead, at which point the waiter brought her a tumbler of white wine and a glass of neat lemon juice! She was not impressed.
In the afternoon, four of us went to a nearby beach where Frank decided to go swimming with his one week old telephone in his pocket. It didn't enjoy the sensation. A group of elderly Croatian ladies were sunbathing near us and suddenly all went for a dip; they swam out a certain distance and once away from the shore, all broke into song together. It was lovely. In the evening, the port was much livelier than it had seemed during the day, with crowds promenading along the seafront but bang on 11pm,everything closed and they all disappeared - much to the changrin of the kids who were hoping for some nightlife!
The next day saw us heading down to Korcula as we'd heard of the sword dancing there and hoped to catch it. It was a beautiful trip, pottering along slowly and hugging the shoreline, and we were lucky to get a berth in the port. Once there,we booked a table at our favourite restaurant, forgetting to check the time of the sword dancing...and of course the two things clashed. Sod the sword dancing, we ate well! After dinner, our guests dragged us off for a drink, choosing a tower set in the walls of the town which had a bar on the roof, and was accessed by various rather dangerous staircases and a rickety wooden ladder! Health and safety would have a field day at home, there nobody cared! We made it up - and, more importantly, down - the ladder but didn't go too mad on the cocktails for fear of falling off the top!
Had a brief shop after breakfast in town the following morning, then back to sea but not very far. We anchored off by a beautiful old monstery, where deer were grazing near the water, and spent half the day just swimming and sunbathing in perfect conditions. Early evening saw us en route down to Mljet, another of our favourite places, where we anchored in a stunning little cove, tying up to the shore and swimming in the sea after dinner, with hundreds of fish following us around.
As Brian had only 9 days with us, we had to keep on heading south, and spent the following night at anchor at Sipan, taking them to another of those restaurants that we've really enjoyed on this trip. This is the one where there are no menus, simply a choice of fish or meat. Brian and Adam had meat, but that turned out to be just the main course, as the first 3 courses were still fish, even for meatlovers! The waiter eventually had to ask us to keep our voices down a little, when our singing after dinner wasn't entirely appreciated by other tourists (why not, I have no idea!)
We dropped Brian off in Cavtat as we made the usual arrangements for checking out of Croatia, then pootled off down the coast to Montenegro. We had told the kids about the yacht club there, with its amazing swimming pool, and I think it lived up to expectations.
The temperature was extremely high, day after day, but I think it peaked when we were in Montenegro. Adam and I went shopping at 9am one morning and before we'd gone more than half a dozen paces, the sweat was pouring off us. Someone said it was knocking on 40 degrees and whether that's true or not, I don't know but it sure felt like it. We were relieved, later in the day, to get out and anchor off a nearby island where we could dive into the water to cool off, and then we all sat in the cockpit watching a small fire on a hillside turn into an enormous blaze as it spread through the dry undergrowth. Eventually a couple of small aeroplanes doused it with great dollops of water and by the time we left, things seemed to be coming under control.
We had a quick spin around the fjord so our guests could see the famous landmark islands with their little churches on them, then, after spying some more fires breaking out on another hillside, we started the trek back up to Croatia where we managed, for the first time, to secure a berth in Cavtat. It wasn't as calm as we'd anticipated, and considering we were in port, we had quite a bumpy night, but it was lovely to be there and, whilst Christian and Leonie went out for a romantic dinner a deux, we had a not so romantic dinner a trois with Adam!
Our last day with my brood was spent at anchor in the inlet near Dubrovnik before we went into port and then into town for the evening, where we had an excellent meal at a restaurant where the boys (inc Frank) all lusted after the manageress who had the longest legs (and shortest skirt) imaginable!
Last Wednesday was turn around day - Christian, Adam and Leonie left, Adrian and his family arrived, all within a couple of hours! We opted to take them in to Dubrovnik for their first night, so they could see this beautiful city, and had a meal in the restaurant overlooking the old port that we had enjoyed a couple of times before. In the morning, we set out to sea, on course for Mljet which immediately turned into a favourite place for everyone. We anchored off again, close to where we had been a couple of nights earlier, and the children spent most of the afternoon and evening in the water. Dinner was a barbeque under the stars, then more swimming before bed - an idyllic day!
We have been incredibly lucky with the sea conditions, and they stayed good as we sailed from Mljet to Lestovo, an island we hadn't visited before. It was very pretty but we decided not to stay there and sailed on to Vis, where we showed our guests the submarine pen - they were as intrigued by it as we had been and impressed that Frank could negotiate Zaffina right inside. We anchored near one of the islands opposite Hvar for the night, then next stop was Palmizana, which was, amazingly, almost empty! We couldn't believe it, and feared that perhaps there was a mighty storm due to pass through and that everyone was taking shelter elsewhere, but that wasn't the case - apparently at the end ofAugust, things drop off for a while because prices are still high so everyone hangs on until Sept and gets a better deal on their holiday! The last time we were here, we'd spotted what looked like a fabulous restaurant on the other side of the island, and made our way there for dinner. It was fab - sitting on the terrace with paper lanterns swung through the trees and swaying in the breeze; the meal was pretty fab too!
The next day, Adrian and I took the dinghy over to Hvar to have a quick spin around the supermarket, as the fridge was looking somewhat depleted! We all went over later in the day, and ended up hiking up to the castle which stands guard over the town - the views were brilliant, although the walk up there in the heat of the day was pretty tiring! After a pizza dinner in the square, we wandered around the town for a while then got a taxi back to our anchorage.
We were debating whether to go back to Korcula with our guests, but everyone wanted to return to Mljet, which had proved to be their favourite spot of the holiday, so we retraced our footsteps south, stopping again at the monastery for a swim break before anchoring close to where we'd been previously at Mljet. It was as gorgeous this time around and a good choice for the night. The children had a great time driving the dinghy round the anchorage and going further afield with Adrian or Frank driving, and we enjoyed another barbeque dinner. Nobody wanted to leave the next day, so we stayed at anchor until the afternoon, when we moved a few miles to Sipan where we again dropped the hook for a swim. As the anchor went down, I noticed something fall into the water - one of the bolts from the anchor release had sheared off and disappeared, so it was rather nerve wracking when the time came to pull the anchor back up. Fortunately it came up ok, but once in place it was clearly not serviceable any longer, so even if we had wanted to anchor again, we were not able to. We drifted back into port at Dubrovnik over a calm sea and after our guests had all had a swim in the marina pool, we went out for a quiet last night at a small restaurant nearby.
And then suddenly it was quiet again! Adrian, Michael, Dominic, Howie and Chantelle departed yesterday morning so we spent the remainder of yesterday and this morning cleaning Zaffina in readiness for Tim, Jo and Lily who arrive shortly. Last night we met up with Ed Bailhache and Kath who are touring Europe, and had dinner together in Dubrovnik - another lovely evening. And that's about it really!
As I write, we're sitting in the marina in Dubrovnik, one set of guests left yesterday (Adrian and Family) another arrives in an hour (Tim and Family) so there really hasn't been much time to get on the computer and write up what we've been up to. Apologies.
As anticipated, we went from Palmazana - I think that's the right spelling this time, but don't quote me - up to Viz, a few miles out to the west. It was one of our slightly bumpier crossings, but then we've got used to the sea being pretty calm since we've been back here, and I can't say it was bad at all. On the southwest point of Viz, we found a nice little bay to anchor in, not the prettiest but it did give good shelter which was as well because there were quiet a few whitecaps on the sea later in the day and we decided to stay there for the night, eating on board and spending the rest of the evening playing charades (with a certain amount of cheating I fear!)
Next day we pottered around the coast of Viz, getting in really close to some of the small caves which indent the rocky shore line and then, when we were a bay or two away from Viz Town, finding a submarine pen hidden from view in an inlet! Frank nosed Zaffina right in, a wierd experience, with the noise of the thrusters echoing round the chamber. After exploring it for a while we went into Viz town itself, on a blisteringly hot afternoon and immediately set out to find some cool drinks - which turned out to be a bit on the wierd side! Christian and Leonie ordered pina colada which turned out to be about half an inch of a yellowy, milky looking liquid in the bottom of a glass and nothing else! Leonie then decided to have a spritzer instead, at which point the waiter brought her a tumbler of white wine and a glass of neat lemon juice! She was not impressed.
In the afternoon, four of us went to a nearby beach where Frank decided to go swimming with his one week old telephone in his pocket. It didn't enjoy the sensation. A group of elderly Croatian ladies were sunbathing near us and suddenly all went for a dip; they swam out a certain distance and once away from the shore, all broke into song together. It was lovely. In the evening, the port was much livelier than it had seemed during the day, with crowds promenading along the seafront but bang on 11pm,everything closed and they all disappeared - much to the changrin of the kids who were hoping for some nightlife!
The next day saw us heading down to Korcula as we'd heard of the sword dancing there and hoped to catch it. It was a beautiful trip, pottering along slowly and hugging the shoreline, and we were lucky to get a berth in the port. Once there,we booked a table at our favourite restaurant, forgetting to check the time of the sword dancing...and of course the two things clashed. Sod the sword dancing, we ate well! After dinner, our guests dragged us off for a drink, choosing a tower set in the walls of the town which had a bar on the roof, and was accessed by various rather dangerous staircases and a rickety wooden ladder! Health and safety would have a field day at home, there nobody cared! We made it up - and, more importantly, down - the ladder but didn't go too mad on the cocktails for fear of falling off the top!
Had a brief shop after breakfast in town the following morning, then back to sea but not very far. We anchored off by a beautiful old monstery, where deer were grazing near the water, and spent half the day just swimming and sunbathing in perfect conditions. Early evening saw us en route down to Mljet, another of our favourite places, where we anchored in a stunning little cove, tying up to the shore and swimming in the sea after dinner, with hundreds of fish following us around.
As Brian had only 9 days with us, we had to keep on heading south, and spent the following night at anchor at Sipan, taking them to another of those restaurants that we've really enjoyed on this trip. This is the one where there are no menus, simply a choice of fish or meat. Brian and Adam had meat, but that turned out to be just the main course, as the first 3 courses were still fish, even for meatlovers! The waiter eventually had to ask us to keep our voices down a little, when our singing after dinner wasn't entirely appreciated by other tourists (why not, I have no idea!)
We dropped Brian off in Cavtat as we made the usual arrangements for checking out of Croatia, then pootled off down the coast to Montenegro. We had told the kids about the yacht club there, with its amazing swimming pool, and I think it lived up to expectations.
The temperature was extremely high, day after day, but I think it peaked when we were in Montenegro. Adam and I went shopping at 9am one morning and before we'd gone more than half a dozen paces, the sweat was pouring off us. Someone said it was knocking on 40 degrees and whether that's true or not, I don't know but it sure felt like it. We were relieved, later in the day, to get out and anchor off a nearby island where we could dive into the water to cool off, and then we all sat in the cockpit watching a small fire on a hillside turn into an enormous blaze as it spread through the dry undergrowth. Eventually a couple of small aeroplanes doused it with great dollops of water and by the time we left, things seemed to be coming under control.
We had a quick spin around the fjord so our guests could see the famous landmark islands with their little churches on them, then, after spying some more fires breaking out on another hillside, we started the trek back up to Croatia where we managed, for the first time, to secure a berth in Cavtat. It wasn't as calm as we'd anticipated, and considering we were in port, we had quite a bumpy night, but it was lovely to be there and, whilst Christian and Leonie went out for a romantic dinner a deux, we had a not so romantic dinner a trois with Adam!
Our last day with my brood was spent at anchor in the inlet near Dubrovnik before we went into port and then into town for the evening, where we had an excellent meal at a restaurant where the boys (inc Frank) all lusted after the manageress who had the longest legs (and shortest skirt) imaginable!
Last Wednesday was turn around day - Christian, Adam and Leonie left, Adrian and his family arrived, all within a couple of hours! We opted to take them in to Dubrovnik for their first night, so they could see this beautiful city, and had a meal in the restaurant overlooking the old port that we had enjoyed a couple of times before. In the morning, we set out to sea, on course for Mljet which immediately turned into a favourite place for everyone. We anchored off again, close to where we had been a couple of nights earlier, and the children spent most of the afternoon and evening in the water. Dinner was a barbeque under the stars, then more swimming before bed - an idyllic day!
We have been incredibly lucky with the sea conditions, and they stayed good as we sailed from Mljet to Lestovo, an island we hadn't visited before. It was very pretty but we decided not to stay there and sailed on to Vis, where we showed our guests the submarine pen - they were as intrigued by it as we had been and impressed that Frank could negotiate Zaffina right inside. We anchored near one of the islands opposite Hvar for the night, then next stop was Palmizana, which was, amazingly, almost empty! We couldn't believe it, and feared that perhaps there was a mighty storm due to pass through and that everyone was taking shelter elsewhere, but that wasn't the case - apparently at the end ofAugust, things drop off for a while because prices are still high so everyone hangs on until Sept and gets a better deal on their holiday! The last time we were here, we'd spotted what looked like a fabulous restaurant on the other side of the island, and made our way there for dinner. It was fab - sitting on the terrace with paper lanterns swung through the trees and swaying in the breeze; the meal was pretty fab too!
The next day, Adrian and I took the dinghy over to Hvar to have a quick spin around the supermarket, as the fridge was looking somewhat depleted! We all went over later in the day, and ended up hiking up to the castle which stands guard over the town - the views were brilliant, although the walk up there in the heat of the day was pretty tiring! After a pizza dinner in the square, we wandered around the town for a while then got a taxi back to our anchorage.
We were debating whether to go back to Korcula with our guests, but everyone wanted to return to Mljet, which had proved to be their favourite spot of the holiday, so we retraced our footsteps south, stopping again at the monastery for a swim break before anchoring close to where we'd been previously at Mljet. It was as gorgeous this time around and a good choice for the night. The children had a great time driving the dinghy round the anchorage and going further afield with Adrian or Frank driving, and we enjoyed another barbeque dinner. Nobody wanted to leave the next day, so we stayed at anchor until the afternoon, when we moved a few miles to Sipan where we again dropped the hook for a swim. As the anchor went down, I noticed something fall into the water - one of the bolts from the anchor release had sheared off and disappeared, so it was rather nerve wracking when the time came to pull the anchor back up. Fortunately it came up ok, but once in place it was clearly not serviceable any longer, so even if we had wanted to anchor again, we were not able to. We drifted back into port at Dubrovnik over a calm sea and after our guests had all had a swim in the marina pool, we went out for a quiet last night at a small restaurant nearby.
And then suddenly it was quiet again! Adrian, Michael, Dominic, Howie and Chantelle departed yesterday morning so we spent the remainder of yesterday and this morning cleaning Zaffina in readiness for Tim, Jo and Lily who arrive shortly. Last night we met up with Ed Bailhache and Kath who are touring Europe, and had dinner together in Dubrovnik - another lovely evening. And that's about it really!
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